Ok guys, my UBER sweet super special Stasis Koni 3012 Motorsports are up for sale
09-02-2005, 02:01 PM
#12
with as deep as your car is, I'd spend some time before buying a suspension...
...if I were you, here is what I'd start with.
1) You're going to have to fine tune the setup, there is no "established" S4 1/4 mile setups, so you'll want a kit that is adjustable in 2 key areas, damping and spring rates.
2) Bear in mind, the right "setup" to get the 60foot is probably not going to be all that great of a daily driver, but I bet you can get a single kit and spring rate package and adjust your self between steet and strip.
3) So in teh world of adjustable kits, you dont have much to choose from:
Track Sports
OHLINS
PENSKE
As for spring rates, who knows where to start. The key here is going to be data. You need to know how much front wheel spin you are getting, and start adding more and more rear spring rate till that is offset, or till you've reached a point of diminishing returns. Actually, it may even be better for you to run a "normal" rear spring, but run a super progressive bump rubber that is tuned to go solid on a strip launch. This could be measured by checking shaft movement on a launch (zip ties work great). Then buying a bump stop that goes solid (softly, not harshly) when you launch. That'll create a TON of rear spring rate to help you out.
As for front rate, probably start with something "normal" and see what happens. I'm thinking you'll spend the majority of your time playing with Rebound settings, so a good cost effective approach might be the single adjustable PENSKE setup. Easy to rebuild, PENSKE likly has a good baseline drag valving for FWD, which you could tweak for AWD, and they'll be able to get you the right rear bump stop you want to create your "launch stop".
Then once you have a good valving for compression and good spring rates for weight transfer and daily driving duties, you can play with rebound at the track to dial in a good 60 foot.
As for alignment, that's easy, but tricky at the same time.
You want ZERO toe front and rear, and ZERO camber front and rear. The issue you'll fight is that as you compress the rear on a launch, the tire will camber negatively, and you'll lose contact patch. The same is true for the front, though that will spend a lot of it's time fairly unloaded at the launch. You'll likely benefit from adjustable front and rear control arms, but not to gain negative camber, but rather gain positive camber.
A good understanding of what the camber and toe settings are at various levels of compression will help you find a dialing point to aim your "zero point" at.
Say you want the rear to have zero camber at 2" compression (if that's even possible) it will have positive camber at ride height. Mind you all this will make the car turn like ****.
You gotta decide how deep you want to go to get teh best 60foot you can.
1) You're going to have to fine tune the setup, there is no "established" S4 1/4 mile setups, so you'll want a kit that is adjustable in 2 key areas, damping and spring rates.
2) Bear in mind, the right "setup" to get the 60foot is probably not going to be all that great of a daily driver, but I bet you can get a single kit and spring rate package and adjust your self between steet and strip.
3) So in teh world of adjustable kits, you dont have much to choose from:
Track Sports
OHLINS
PENSKE
As for spring rates, who knows where to start. The key here is going to be data. You need to know how much front wheel spin you are getting, and start adding more and more rear spring rate till that is offset, or till you've reached a point of diminishing returns. Actually, it may even be better for you to run a "normal" rear spring, but run a super progressive bump rubber that is tuned to go solid on a strip launch. This could be measured by checking shaft movement on a launch (zip ties work great). Then buying a bump stop that goes solid (softly, not harshly) when you launch. That'll create a TON of rear spring rate to help you out.
As for front rate, probably start with something "normal" and see what happens. I'm thinking you'll spend the majority of your time playing with Rebound settings, so a good cost effective approach might be the single adjustable PENSKE setup. Easy to rebuild, PENSKE likly has a good baseline drag valving for FWD, which you could tweak for AWD, and they'll be able to get you the right rear bump stop you want to create your "launch stop".
Then once you have a good valving for compression and good spring rates for weight transfer and daily driving duties, you can play with rebound at the track to dial in a good 60 foot.
As for alignment, that's easy, but tricky at the same time.
You want ZERO toe front and rear, and ZERO camber front and rear. The issue you'll fight is that as you compress the rear on a launch, the tire will camber negatively, and you'll lose contact patch. The same is true for the front, though that will spend a lot of it's time fairly unloaded at the launch. You'll likely benefit from adjustable front and rear control arms, but not to gain negative camber, but rather gain positive camber.
A good understanding of what the camber and toe settings are at various levels of compression will help you find a dialing point to aim your "zero point" at.
Say you want the rear to have zero camber at 2" compression (if that's even possible) it will have positive camber at ride height. Mind you all this will make the car turn like ****.
You gotta decide how deep you want to go to get teh best 60foot you can.
09-02-2005, 02:33 PM
#13
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*Valving*
I've done some research on this with regards to valving and have what I believe to be a very good baseline. Penske definitely has some experience in that department; they have a drag racing shock specialist.
Marc, we've talked in the past about it, but at some point you've got to kick the first stone.
Marc, we've talked in the past about it, but at some point you've got to kick the first stone.
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