ok, i think i know why my car is FUBAR...
#24
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basically, I need to know:
1) your price range
2) length of rental
3) dates you need it (when you're moving in, when moving out)
4) rooms required
5) how long are you willing to travel to get to NYC
(in other words, would a place around white plains,
which has a major train that gets to manhattan in
about 30 min be cool - LI, and other places
are also a good likely hood to be affordable, but
if you want a short term apartment with a garage,
westchester/white plains is your best bet)
1) your price range
2) length of rental
3) dates you need it (when you're moving in, when moving out)
4) rooms required
5) how long are you willing to travel to get to NYC
(in other words, would a place around white plains,
which has a major train that gets to manhattan in
about 30 min be cool - LI, and other places
are also a good likely hood to be affordable, but
if you want a short term apartment with a garage,
westchester/white plains is your best bet)
#26
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the ECU puts a voltage on one wire and measures the voltage on the output wire. The variation in resistance determines the O2 content. Hook it up backwards and it probably just won't work. It shouldn't fry anything.
#30
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If you shorted from the O2 wires chances are you blew a fuse - namely the "control unit engine" fuse #34... it's like the 4th or 5th one up from the bottom, middle row of fuses. 15 amp.
Mine blew when my rear drivers side O2 sensor rubbed against the driveline and wore threw the heat wrap. The wire didn't wear threw, but for some reason it was enough to blow the fuse and product the same DTC's that you're showing... YMMV.
Mine blew when my rear drivers side O2 sensor rubbed against the driveline and wore threw the heat wrap. The wire didn't wear threw, but for some reason it was enough to blow the fuse and product the same DTC's that you're showing... YMMV.