mosmoe (OPG)

I've just finished installing 034 track density motor and transmission mounts and rear diff bushings and power ring. I was worried about vibrations at first. After I installed the transmission mounts, there was some vibration, but it smoothed out over the next few days. I didn't notice any difference from the motor mounts. It will vibrate slightly at idle, but it is very slight and extremely livable.

So, install notes:
rear diff bushing - it helps to oil them after they are pressed in, before installing the mount back on the car, so that you can slide it around a bit easier to put the bolts through. I had to use a screwdriver and pry the mount back and forth.

rear diff ring - super easy

transmission mounts - not a big deal, it helps to have someone pull the subframe down a bit so you can slide in the mounts, but you could just use a piece of 2x4.

motor mounts - frustrating. I used this writeup as a guide https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/1945094.phtml
but I found you didn't need to remove all the items in the article.

1:remove airbox, remove plastic cover around power steering fluid reservoir
2:remove hard pipes coming down from the Y pipe (one bolt and it pulls up and out)
3:remove the pipe that the former slides down into (one bolt and it slides free). Note that I didn't take them out, just wiggled them loose. 4:Jack up the car. Remove the sway bar from the car (can leave it attached at the wheels) and swing it out of the way.
5:Place jack under engine and jack it up slightly (I used 2x4's to distribute the load).
6:Remove lower IC soft lines.
7:Remove lower engine mount bolts, remove the aluminum piece that the engine mount sits in (three bolts).
At this point I was able to remove the passenger side with a flexible head socket wrench and 13mm socket. The drivers side was harder. You need to remove the hard pipe that goes back to the turbo (two 5mm allen bolts). Then I used a flexible socket wrench with a deep 13mm socket and sort of went from behind to get down to the upper mount bolt. It took me a while to figure out that this could be done, but once I did, it didn't take all that long. When you install the new mount, it helps to hold down the nut with your finger and spin the engine mount. Otherwise there isn't enough room to start the nut on the bolt.

I think that is everything. Let me know if you have any questions. I really like the feel of my car after doing this. The shunt is gone and the car feels more responsive. I was worried that the vibration would ruin the luxury feel of the car but it is so slight that I really don't notice.

Wrinkledpants

changed somewhat. It seems the car .......shudders or reverberates more when going over small cracks in the road. Anyone else notice this? It's nothing major and completely livable, but I notice it the most at highway speeds when there is a evenly spaced joint or something like that. It reminds me of riding in a long box heavy duty truck. I'm stock suspension at 120k miles. Suspension is the next modification.

turbosquatt

I noticed the idle vibration immediately, nothing major, but it feels soooo solid now. The TIP shifts smoother because the trans doesn't move AT ALL, whereas before the trans moved about an inch and a half, and if I gave it WOT from a dead stop, it would hit the underbody!!

So anyway, I found that it was impossible without a lift and a trans jack. I lowered the subframe and they went in after about 10 min of prying...

S4_NE

they all work well together

scottr20ae

I have the hard pipe(that goes to the turbo) loose, and it is giving me more room, but I'm not having much luck with my stubby Gearwrench. I can get it on the nut, but I'm having trouble getting the nut loose, and I don't want to round that nut. I'm going at it from the bottom.

Has anyone used this method, and had success? If so, a few questions.
1. which direction did you go to the nut from, top or bottom?
2. where did you have the hard pipe shifted too?
-closer to the front of the car, or twisted up?
3. which tools did you use?

Frustrated again, another failed attempt.

BlackS4inNNJ

Scott how did you make out with the drivers side motor mount?? I'm stuck with mine. I was able to get the passenger side done. I don't seem to have any room to get the drivers side top nut off. I have the oil filter removed and the lower soft IC hose removed. The lower motor mount braket is removed. I'm stuck here. What should I try next? Thanks!

scottr20ae

I had to drop the AC compressor to get it done, and even doing that, it was still very difficult.

Here is what I would suggest, if you don't mind the money and time(waiting for the tool)
-buy this:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
*Snap-On longball 8mm hex head
-if you don't have this, I highly suggest getting it too:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G18
*this tool was 100% invaluable on the job, could NOT have done it without it

With that being said, if you get those 2 tools, I would recommend trying Simpply's method:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4/msgs/41118.phtml

I had the Craftsman(not the Snap-On) long ball, and it did not work for Simpply's method, but someone else said they tried the same tool, got the same results, and then used the Snap-On, and then they were able to do it that way.

If you don't want to do it that way, or just need to get it done before you could get the tool, then take the following route:
-spray some PB Blaster, or some other bolt loosening substance on the top nut long before you get to it(do this for either method you use)
-service position(yeah, its as fun as it sounds)
-pull the hard pipe that goes to the Y-pipe
-loosen the hard pipe(since its very hard to take out) with the nut closest to the front of the car(hope you have small hands)
-take the ribbed belt off
-be sure to remove the little bracket holding the AC lines tight, over on the passenger side to the oil pan maybe, its right there by it
-drop the AC compressor down(3 long bolts, 2 in the front, one in the back)
*not too bad at all, just getting to this point was the crap job
-now, go in from the front(over the AC compressor) and put the above mentioned 13mm gear wrench on the top nut, and PRAY to God, that you can get it off at this point(that was one of my tools, prayer)
*I believe I also used another wrench on the gear wrench's open end, to get more leverage, and I believe I hit the second wrench with a BFH(big freakin hammer) to loosen the nut
-even after it was loose, I believe it still took me the better part of an hour to unthread the nut off

Let me know if you have any other questions, or have never done service position before.

BlackS4inNNJ

Thanks Scott! I'll order those tools and try Simpply's method.

lsc2g

I did stern soft motor mounts
stern (updated 2011) tranny mounts
apikol rear diff carrier rear carrier bushings
apikol rear diff mount

car is SOLID!

little vibrations at idle but its not noticable hardly. with the AC on its a bit more but nothing the wife doesn't even notice/complain about

BlackS4inNNJ

I was able to complete the drivers side MM using Simmply's method. Thanks Scott!! The one thing I need to add for someone trying it is: Give the long snapon or mac 8mm allen a couple hard taps with a hammer to make sure it seats well into the allen bolt. Especially on the two rear bolts!! The front two bolts aren't bad cuz the allen tool is pretty square to the bolt. But the rear two, you're going in on a angle and the allen tool wasn't holding when I put pressure on it to loosen.