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Quote to rebuild Porsche Big Red (ECS stage 3) = $900.

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Old 05-04-2005, 10:50 AM
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Default Quote to rebuild Porsche Big Red (ECS stage 3) = $900.

Parts (pistons & seals) come to roughly $350. 5-6 hours of labor. Two bottles of Motul.

Only the outer seals are junk at this point, and I can't buy those separately (according to the shop). So, if I'm buying the pistons and inner seals as well, why not do the entire job? Ideally, I'd like to just buy the outer seals and replace those myself.

Tips, suggestions, comments? Anyone else dealt with a rebuild of these before? I wasn't expecting such a huge cost just to overcome some beat up outer seals (no fluid leakage).
Old 05-04-2005, 11:03 AM
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Default I have rebuilt corvette calipers several times, but never Porsche.

Overall it is not too complicated. THe hardest part was getting the skirts (inner seals) seated without puncturing them or scratching the cylinder walls. It was fairly straight forward. Biggest thing...

Take your time and be patient.
Old 05-04-2005, 11:04 AM
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Default Ouch- ->

is that a service ECS provides or a third party?
Old 05-04-2005, 11:06 AM
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Default When removing old pistons, can I just grab them with some pliers and pull?

Assuming that the caliper is disconnected from the line so that there's no vacuum, of course. Do I need compressed air?

Do the new seals and pistons simply push in? Any special tools/tricks?

I wouldn't mind doing the job myself and saving some dough.
Old 05-04-2005, 11:08 AM
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Default Local shop. I just verified with ECS that you can only get the entire piston kit...

No way to get just the outer seals.

FWIW, they said that it's not a common problem. I beat on my brakes pretty hard at the track, so I'm not surprised, actually. These lasted 17 days plus street use.
Old 05-04-2005, 11:15 AM
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Default See inside...

Yes...the pistons just pulled out but you need to be careful to make sure they come out straight. If they tilt slightly, then they can get pinched. Again, patience! I did not have access to compessed air, but to me that might be easier and ensure even piston travel.

The new pistons and seals did push right in. I helped to use new brake fluid as a lube. the inner seals are shaped sort of like a "V". The point of the "V" is towards the top of the piston (the brake pad end). When you insert them, you have to "tuck" the outer end of the "V" into the cylinder. If this get folded up, the fluid will shoot right past. This is the part I mentioned before. The skirt is designed to be pressed outward to the cylinder walls and upward toward pads/rotor as pressure is added. The outer seals, for the corvette, had a metal ring on the outer diamter that was pressed (a hammer worked) into a groove in the caliper and the inner diameter slips over the piston.
Old 05-04-2005, 11:19 AM
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Default No pliers!

If you google enough, you'll find a how-to on rebuilding calipers.

Use compressed air to to pressurize the caliper to pop them out. The first one will be easy, but the second will be a little trickier since there's a big hole from the first piston. You can slightly put the free piston back in a tiny bit to close off the piston bore and then pressurize the caliper to pop the second piston.
Old 05-04-2005, 11:30 AM
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Default

or just remove the calipers and pump the brake couple times ;p
Old 05-04-2005, 11:34 AM
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spcifically...17 TRACK days...
Old 05-04-2005, 11:44 AM
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Default LOL - correct. I've had them installed a little over a year now.

They've faced a Midwestern winter and heavy track use. No complaints so far.


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