Rear window regulator replacement:
12-16-2008, 07:56 PM
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Rear window regulator replacement:
Hey guys,
I just wanted to share an exchange of emails I had regarding changing the rear window regulator. I figured if I'm taking the time to write it, I might as well post it for everyone...
Question/Symptoms:
Hi, while STFA on AW-S4 I found your post on how to replace a defective a rear door window regulator. I happen to have the same problem, first I heard a breakage noise, then my window doesn't go up anymore. Even if I push it with both hands, it rolls down. Funny thing is my friend's S4 got the same problem last week but he was able to get the window up all the way. I need to remove the door cover to see what exactly broke, in your case which part did you change? How was the repair? ...and I got the link to the tech article that you provided. Thanks.
Answer:
If you heard the breakage noise, then you broke one of the ingenious plastic pulleys that is part of the window regulator. The window is secured by a thin braided steel cable, that operates on 3 pulleys - two small ones (one at the top of the regulator, and one at the bottom, and then the 3rd that the cable actually winds around (the motor attaches to this one). The common one to break is the top one, but the bottom one also breaks. You can't get the window up because the cable is a tangled, mangled mess in there by now. If you take the door card off, you can just cut the cable, lift the window up, and secure it with 6-8 zip ties. My car is my DD, so I used 6 ties that were rated for 25lbs each, drove around for almost a week waiting for the part to come in, and everything was fine.
To replace it, you need to buy the entire regulator, which is part number 8D0 839 461 for driver's side, 8D0 839 462 for passenger side. You also need 4 pop rivets (Part # N 904 786 01). I recommend ordering from www.genuinevwaudiparts.com. This includes a new regulator frame, all new pulleys, cable, etc.
To install, you need to first remove the door card (interior door panel), then you need to unbolt the window motor. It's tough to get out sometimes, but just keep at it and it will come out. There are four large Torx bolts (2 on each side) that need to be removed. Pay attention to the area around the bottom two bolts, as there will probably be one or more shims/spacers in place. Best bet is to take a picture to remember their orientation/location. Next, remove the 4 Torx bolts, and the entire window frame will lift up and out of the door skin. You will be left with a very naked door.
Lay the window frame down on a nice soft blanket, and next you will have unbolt the window glass from the slider bracket. Then, you need to drill out the existing pop rivets. You will have to manipulate the window slider bracket to gain access to all the rivets. Once all rivets are removed, the old window regulator frame can be removed. With the new regulator, reverse the process, bolt the glass back into the slider bracket, and then position the regulator over the existing rivet holes. Use your pop rivet gun to secure the regulator with the pop rivets you purchased with the regulator.
Next, take the window frame back out to the car, and place it back into the door skin. Don't forget to assemble everything with the shims/spacers in the exact same location as they were before. Snug everything down, and then replace the window motor and plug it back into the harness. Before putting the door card back on all the way, connect the harness for the window control, put your key in, and test the window. If all works, put the door card back on, and enjoy a now functioning rear window.
The repair is by no means difficult. Provided you have the proper tools (found in the <a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/int65.shtml">tech article</a>), you will be fine. I didn't even know there was a <a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/int65.shtml">tech article</a> until after I did this myself.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
Regards,
Dave
I just wanted to share an exchange of emails I had regarding changing the rear window regulator. I figured if I'm taking the time to write it, I might as well post it for everyone...
Question/Symptoms:
Hi, while STFA on AW-S4 I found your post on how to replace a defective a rear door window regulator. I happen to have the same problem, first I heard a breakage noise, then my window doesn't go up anymore. Even if I push it with both hands, it rolls down. Funny thing is my friend's S4 got the same problem last week but he was able to get the window up all the way. I need to remove the door cover to see what exactly broke, in your case which part did you change? How was the repair? ...and I got the link to the tech article that you provided. Thanks.
Answer:
If you heard the breakage noise, then you broke one of the ingenious plastic pulleys that is part of the window regulator. The window is secured by a thin braided steel cable, that operates on 3 pulleys - two small ones (one at the top of the regulator, and one at the bottom, and then the 3rd that the cable actually winds around (the motor attaches to this one). The common one to break is the top one, but the bottom one also breaks. You can't get the window up because the cable is a tangled, mangled mess in there by now. If you take the door card off, you can just cut the cable, lift the window up, and secure it with 6-8 zip ties. My car is my DD, so I used 6 ties that were rated for 25lbs each, drove around for almost a week waiting for the part to come in, and everything was fine.
To replace it, you need to buy the entire regulator, which is part number 8D0 839 461 for driver's side, 8D0 839 462 for passenger side. You also need 4 pop rivets (Part # N 904 786 01). I recommend ordering from www.genuinevwaudiparts.com. This includes a new regulator frame, all new pulleys, cable, etc.
To install, you need to first remove the door card (interior door panel), then you need to unbolt the window motor. It's tough to get out sometimes, but just keep at it and it will come out. There are four large Torx bolts (2 on each side) that need to be removed. Pay attention to the area around the bottom two bolts, as there will probably be one or more shims/spacers in place. Best bet is to take a picture to remember their orientation/location. Next, remove the 4 Torx bolts, and the entire window frame will lift up and out of the door skin. You will be left with a very naked door.
Lay the window frame down on a nice soft blanket, and next you will have unbolt the window glass from the slider bracket. Then, you need to drill out the existing pop rivets. You will have to manipulate the window slider bracket to gain access to all the rivets. Once all rivets are removed, the old window regulator frame can be removed. With the new regulator, reverse the process, bolt the glass back into the slider bracket, and then position the regulator over the existing rivet holes. Use your pop rivet gun to secure the regulator with the pop rivets you purchased with the regulator.
Next, take the window frame back out to the car, and place it back into the door skin. Don't forget to assemble everything with the shims/spacers in the exact same location as they were before. Snug everything down, and then replace the window motor and plug it back into the harness. Before putting the door card back on all the way, connect the harness for the window control, put your key in, and test the window. If all works, put the door card back on, and enjoy a now functioning rear window.
The repair is by no means difficult. Provided you have the proper tools (found in the <a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/int65.shtml">tech article</a>), you will be fine. I didn't even know there was a <a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/int65.shtml">tech article</a> until after I did this myself.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
Regards,
Dave
12-16-2008, 08:56 PM
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Do you HAVE to remove the window frame from the door? When I replaced the reg on
My 01 Jetta, I just unbolted the glass & slid it up & out of the door; leaving the window frame attached. Then again, the Jetta's door card was of a traditional design with all accessories mounted to the door, unlike the S's Frankenschitzel design of mounting everything to the door card.
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