S4Alex

So, I just finished replacing both my front upper control arms, tie rod ends, front swaybar links. It was rather easy, well, make that easier than I thought. I started at about 1pm and finished at about 5:30. That with about 1-2hour break of going to Kragen's to shop for some PB Blaster and OSH for some Wrenches. So, all in all, took me about 3-4 Hours of time.

I did the method of taking out the whole shock body by undoing the 3 bolts on top. Was easier that way.

I must say that the car drives much more tighter.

My issue, I have StreetSports installed on my car. I was thinking of lowering it a tad more, so, I loosed the threads some and counted about 48 threads on each side so they were about even. When I got the wheels back on the car, it seems that the ride height increased? Does this sound right? Or did I not align something right when I installed the control arms? Would something like this cause my ride hieght to increase?

Also, if I take my car to a alignment shop to ask them to do an alignment (i desperately need it now, my streering wheel is a bit cocked to the right now when i drive straight) can I also ask them to do a ride height adjustment inclusive of an alignment?

Thanks!
AlexM.

ryans4

...i find that anytime I lift the car up, it takes a quick drive to settle back down to normal driving height.

Most places that do alignments can raise/lower coilovers, but you may not get "perfect" only as perfect as the person working on the car.

When you installed the control arms, did you "clock" them? They are designed to be at "rest" at ride height, that way they are stressing under compression and rebound loads, not all the time while driving around.

I'm convinced the rash of control arms wearing out is more a function of lower ride heights then poor OEM rubber. I'd consider (since they are new) before getting an alignment to "clock" the control arms and torque them down with the car at ride height, not at full droop or some other random position. They'll likely last much longer for you.

Of course, if you change the ride height, repeat as necessary. This assumes OEM rubber style control arms, not spherical's which don't car where you torque them.

And get that alignment soon, if you're toe is off (likely, due to the steering wheel change) you'll wear out the tires quick (inside edge).

S4Alex

as far as clocking, not exactly sure what you mean.

but, as to torque the arms at ride height, it is kinda difficult to get a wrench up there while the car is lifted, but I will take the tires off and try it again. hopefully that will help a little.

I am going to probably take it to custom alignment in mountain view or roger kraus in east bay, both are fairly reputable shops that should hopefully take care of that. ok, well back down to the garage i suppose.

ryans4

...then torque.

Might be easier to do it with the wheel off using a floor jack.

Either way, both those alignment shops will treat you right. As for ZERO toe front and rear, that helps a ton with tire wear.

S4Alex

i did just that.. now the car is riding the ride height on all the corners.

what i actually did was when i took the shock body off, i noticed that one of the control arms was angled way down, so i moved it up a bit. mounted them back on, then used a floor jack to give some pressure. lowered the car back down and it was set right again.

thanks for the help.