davenew

The cam gears turn the cams which move the inake and exhaust valve up and down in the cylinders. The crank is attached to the pistons, which also move up/dn in the cylinders. If the valves or pistons move while the other one doesn't.. one will bend.. and it won't be the pistons. Some old-school engines have enough clearance so the pistons will never hit the valves but ours isn't one of them.

The cam bar locks the two banks of valves together timing-wise. IF you rotate the crank too far with the valves locked in place, the pistons will move and (with enough force) could bend the valves. That's why you should also install the crank locking pin, because it locks the crank into the proper clocked position that matches the position of the valves when they're locked in by the cam bar.

I see you made match marks on the sprockets and belt but why didn't you also match mark the timing belt to the crank? It's not recommended but you can do it that way. IF both sprockets and the crank are marked to the belt you can reinstall the same belt and not screw anything up. The only problem with doing it that way is you have no idea if your cam timing (relative to each bank or the crank) is right on the money. You are pretty much trusting that whoever did it the last time set it properly, and that the belt hasn't stretched.

Since you didn't mark the belt to the crank you really need to get a crank locking pin and get it right. If not, at least try to align the crank and get the belt on, then turn the engine slowly by hand to be sure nothing hits. That job could get very expensive for you in short order.

visintainer [vis]

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2045042.phtml">DIYer timing belt job follow up post. [more inside]</a></li></ul>

sidespar

The pic in the Bentley isn't helpful at all.

Someone said by the drain plug, but I don't see anything by it.

visintainer [vis]

<img src="http://enformulation.com/vag/s4/images/turboswap/turboswap0046.jpg" />

sidespar

any hints?

visintainer [vis]

loosen the lower pressure pipe going to the intercooler

Chaddy

...from their bracket on the passenger side. This allowed me to get my girly little hand in there to start the locking pin. Then a series of wobbly extensions or perhaps a U-joint on the ratchet to turn the locking pin the rest of the way in. Yeah, it kinda sucks.

When you reinstall the plastic cap, put the O-ring in its seat first (being careful not to push it into the block!), then push the plastic plug into and through the O-ring. More wobbly extensions and/or U-joint to tighten the plug's retaining bolt. I think I actually used the extensions without a socket to push the plug into place first.

visintainer [vis]

<img src="http://secure.data-comm.com/stores/GL/catalog/3LU42.JPG" />

sidespar

I was able to screw it in by hand then tighten it with a wratchet. It won't go any farther than this. Is this the way it's supposed to look, or am I not at TDC?

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/12726/100_0455.jpg">

visintainer [vis]

that looks farther than i got mine in. try turning the crank a little - should be locked if in