ImolaRocket

Won't the incline leave some oil in the pan?

mpwolf

the car to the left and back. I've found that the factory jack, raised all the way allows JUST enough room to get a jackstand under the car. Once the drain plug is out, the filter is off, and oil is draining, I'll usually take the jack stand out and lower the car. My oil pan is short enough to fit under the car when it's on the ground and wide enough to allow the drain plug and filter to drain at the same time. Even with the car lowered to 25.5" all around (granted, that isn't exactly slammed) the oil pan has clearance. I've found that I can reinstall the drain plug, new filter, and belly pan, with the car flat on the ground.

In reality, you probably don't even need to jack the car up if you're nimble/strong enough. I've found that I sometimes can't get enough leverage to remove the drain plug without the car up in the air, and have a REALLY hard time removing the filter unless I can get right underneath it. A filter wrench would probably help a lot, but I've always taken the filter off with my hands.

George @ BostonAudi

;-)

I assume you meant passenger side. Which is the left when you're actually up there changing the oil, unless you go in from behind!

mpwolf

regardless of how I'm looking at the car in the specific example. But yes, passenger side. =)

Phil G.

I make an anatomic right - right into the dealer's service bay

65GT350R

Proper Reference is Road Side-Curb Side; No Mistake That Way (In the US Anyway!)

J.T.L.

and a tire machine. I've almost got the hang of mounting 45 series.

But if that weren't available the local (DC) clubs have pretty frequent tech days at dealerships/ independant shops, or at least they did in the warmer months. You get to use the facilities (lots 'o lifts available) with some technical supervision/ advice from techs.

Don't know where you are, but check into the QCUSA groups in your area.

Actually, as 2k2S4 said, with stock suspension, after removing the undertray, you should be able to get to the plug and filter with the car on the ground (level) with room for a pan strategically placed underneath or a quick slide away. That worked with my 2.8/sport susp.

-J.T.L.
02 Santorin/Silver/6

JD-tip2ks4

That was the most PITA part of my first oil change.

-jd

The S

Just reach under, pull the belly pan off, use filter wrench, no need to jack or use ramps.

S4_Cinci (I S'edTFA)

car is lifted equally, but due to the placement of the drain plug (rear of the oil pan); I don't think that I leave any appreciable amount of residual oil in the pan. The amount of oil that is clinging to the engine internals (if you use synthetic, because it has greater adhesion properties vs dino) is likely more than what's left in the pan. Also, I let mine drain for like 20 - 30 minutes or so just to be sure.

When I do a filter + oil change, my car takes a full 7 quarts and the level is right at the top of the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. A full 7 quarts has never overfilled my crankcase. I have also heard that Rhino ramps work well, but no experience there personally. They are nice an light compared to my heavy-*** metal ramps!