so is mushy brake feel an indication that fluid change wasn't done properly?
02-08-2002, 12:06 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
so is mushy brake feel an indication that fluid change wasn't done properly?
just had my brake fluid changed at a reputable shop. i don't know if they had their newer folk working on it, but it took 2 hours and 2 1/2 bottles of motul. i guess i should have left well enough alone with the ATE SuperBlue, but some of the posts here got me paranoid . . . especially after my clutch started getting squeaky 3 weeks after the StopTech install . . .
anyways, it was way past closing so i just jumped in and drove off, but the brake feel is soooo much mushier than before i brought it in. still stops <i>OK</i>, but it takes 1/2 the travel before any braking starts. is this a sign that there is still some air in the brake lines? and they didn't bleed the brake system properly?
if so, is there anything that i can do at home without specialized tools? or do i need to bring it back for another 2 hour session? or buy some stuff and go at it myself.
i will not name the shop, as i'm also trying to figure things out with the owner.
thanks for your advice!
anyways, it was way past closing so i just jumped in and drove off, but the brake feel is soooo much mushier than before i brought it in. still stops <i>OK</i>, but it takes 1/2 the travel before any braking starts. is this a sign that there is still some air in the brake lines? and they didn't bleed the brake system properly?
if so, is there anything that i can do at home without specialized tools? or do i need to bring it back for another 2 hour session? or buy some stuff and go at it myself.
i will not name the shop, as i'm also trying to figure things out with the owner.
thanks for your advice!
02-08-2002, 12:14 AM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
i'm talking brake feel 3 hours apart. solid in the morning, mush after the fluid change. you think..
bearings could change that quick?
02-08-2002, 05:14 AM
#4
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Yes. They did not get all the air out.
To fix it should take less time.
You can do this w/o much except for the proper (think it's 11mm) wrench. A flare wrench is best, but a closed end might work. You need two people. One plants his foot on the brake pedal, the other opens the nut. BEFORE the pedal is depressed too far, the nut is closed.
If the pedal is released prior to the nut being closed, air will be sucked back in. That's bad, since you'll have to continue to bleed. You also don't want to get the brake pedal all the way to the floor since the last part of the piston throw is not normally used and may not be smooth/clean/etc.
A pressure bleeder (45 bucks) is much easier. If you live in Dallas, I can help...I'll be flushing my brakes this weekend or next.
RR
You can do this w/o much except for the proper (think it's 11mm) wrench. A flare wrench is best, but a closed end might work. You need two people. One plants his foot on the brake pedal, the other opens the nut. BEFORE the pedal is depressed too far, the nut is closed.
If the pedal is released prior to the nut being closed, air will be sucked back in. That's bad, since you'll have to continue to bleed. You also don't want to get the brake pedal all the way to the floor since the last part of the piston throw is not normally used and may not be smooth/clean/etc.
A pressure bleeder (45 bucks) is much easier. If you live in Dallas, I can help...I'll be flushing my brakes this weekend or next.
RR
