Some alignment specs to ponder over..or make comments on.
#1
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Ryan...this means you! HAHA
Left Front
Camber: -1.7 Caster: 4.4 Toe: 3/32
Right Front
Camber: -1.6 Caster: 4.2 Toe: 3/32
Front
Cross Camber: 0.0 Cross Caster: .2 Ttl Toe: 3/32
Left Rear
Camber: -1.3 Toe: 1/16
Right Rear
Camber: -0.9 Toe: 3/32
Rear
Cross Camber: -0.4 Ttl Toe: 5/32
Thrust Angle: -0.02
Guess we are OK for some highway street driving and some spirited track drivin??? I guess as long as the car drives straight?
Left Front
Camber: -1.7 Caster: 4.4 Toe: 3/32
Right Front
Camber: -1.6 Caster: 4.2 Toe: 3/32
Front
Cross Camber: 0.0 Cross Caster: .2 Ttl Toe: 3/32
Left Rear
Camber: -1.3 Toe: 1/16
Right Rear
Camber: -0.9 Toe: 3/32
Rear
Cross Camber: -0.4 Ttl Toe: 5/32
Thrust Angle: -0.02
Guess we are OK for some highway street driving and some spirited track drivin??? I guess as long as the car drives straight?
#3
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but that could be due to replacement of TRE's. I was getting a LOT of inner tire wear before also. A lot more than I would have expected, even for being lowered. I replaced all C-Arms and two CV Joints so who knows how far off it was before I took it there.
#5
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but per the sheet it states the range is 3/32 to 1/4 on total toe which it is. And it says nothing whether this is toe in or out. it is a +3/32 so I'd say out??? It's not a -3/32. Sorry for the retartedness, I think I just confused myself thinking about it too much..DEE DEE DEE
#6
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In that case you have a ncie street setup, with very little to no tramlining and good stability. Camber looks good too, unless you push the car really hard.
BTW, does that mean that Penskes are on?
BTW, does that mean that Penskes are on?
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#8
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...mine is like 0.3degrees off and both side are running their minimum possible camber, so one side just got a little less then the other.
They probably opted to run them at minimum for each side rather then equal side to side with the lower negative camber side meeting up with the higher negative camber side.
make sense?
They probably opted to run them at minimum for each side rather then equal side to side with the lower negative camber side meeting up with the higher negative camber side.
make sense?
#9
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...you shouldn't get too much wear with your toe settings (they are IN by the way, Tomasz is right in his response).
I think 1/4" is ridiculous. 1/16" per side would be the max I'd run, so you're pretty good.
FWIW, I think negative camber (at 3 degrees or less) has very little negative affect on inside tire wear relative to Toe In settings. I'll take pics of my tires when I work on my car next, but they are soft (treadwear 60) and have been running at 3 degrees negative w/ zero toe and are wearing pretty good as far as I can tell. The car has been like this for 10 months or so now.
I think 1/4" is ridiculous. 1/16" per side would be the max I'd run, so you're pretty good.
FWIW, I think negative camber (at 3 degrees or less) has very little negative affect on inside tire wear relative to Toe In settings. I'll take pics of my tires when I work on my car next, but they are soft (treadwear 60) and have been running at 3 degrees negative w/ zero toe and are wearing pretty good as far as I can tell. The car has been like this for 10 months or so now.
#10
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Surprised though that there would be so much variation on a car left-to-right if it had never had an accident.
Are these cars really so nose heavy that even small amounts of negative camber at the back are useless? Stiff springs, big anti-roll bars, minimal camber -- we seem to be be doing everything possible to cut traction at the back of the car. Hmmm ... I start to like the idea of my staggered wheel sizes more and more each day. :-)
Stephen
Are these cars really so nose heavy that even small amounts of negative camber at the back are useless? Stiff springs, big anti-roll bars, minimal camber -- we seem to be be doing everything possible to cut traction at the back of the car. Hmmm ... I start to like the idea of my staggered wheel sizes more and more each day. :-)
Stephen