Tomasz@Startup

I keep mine in a glove box. I pull off in the middle of a hot session, and soonest it is safe i stop and measure twelve temps. Then I jump back in and have more fun. At the end of the session, I go through the numbers and potentially mess with tires.

Silver Streakin'

fwiw, I just put in the stage 3 kit this past April. but on AWE's dyno, the X chips wtq number isn't far off of the stage 3 pump gas number....200 (X) 210-215 (XR) v 220wtq (stage 3). I haven't been on a track since...new construction house and baby on the way after mvoed funds. Before that, I was typically running my K03 with the GIAC XR chip on race gas or a toluene mix for 100. The race school in Montreal at TRAC Racing was on 91 craptane with a failing turbo. These tires saw most of their use at MidOhio and the Pocono road courses after that.

I think steering with the rear of the car, espeically when tossing it around when the tires get greasy also played a factor. It just seems very deep across the tread to me to be a camber issue at only -1.2 in the rear.

ryans4

...i think it's from driving. and the only thing I can figure is that it's wheel spin. You should ask people who follow you on track if you smoke up the tires at all.

Or take a friend and park them at a tight corner that you power out of hard to watch your tires.

But yeah, if the issue is tire spin, that LSD in the rear will save you some tires, but also probably buy you a couple seconds a lap.

FixedWing

Then I would say you should try to work on your style a little (unless you are intentionally horsing around).

All of that wheel spin is usually counter-productive. Once you start to feel the inside tyre spin there is no point in adding more throttle. In fact, you should try to modulate the throttle around that point so that you've got the ideal slip angle under power.

If the backs really are getting greasy as you say, then you are way overheating the rear tyres and that cannot be good for traction. If you can get them to run a little cooler then you will probably see more traction and faster lap times.

I'm really surprised as I usually expect the front tyres to take most of the abuse on these cars.

Other things to consider might be a too stiff rear anti-roll bar (or too soft front anti-roll bar), too stiff rear springs or too low (or too high) tyre pressures at the back.

Stephen

Silver Streakin'

No, I do not horse around on the track. Yes, I do need to learn the "save the equipment" mind set and slow-in equals fast-out. It's just too damn heavy of a car to track it like I can other cars.

Silver Streakin'

should I turn down the rear rebound setting?

I really wish there was someone around here who tracks their B5 as much as I do and could help me dial it in.

FixedWing

It does sound like an LSD should be on your short-list for modifications. Even then, you will probably find that it gives you even more power-oversteer. So just as you suggest, you probably do need to work on dialing in less oversteer/more understeer.

As for driving style, maybe 2006 should be a year to experiment a little? Looking at your photos, it looks like you already have lots of experience. But what I find for myself is that sometimes that can get me into a rut where I'm not trying new things. If you haven't already, why not spend the winter reading some of the "how to" driving books and see if you can come up with some different ideas to experiment with in the spring?

Another thought would be that if you are in the north, why not try a new type of driving? For example, ice racing. The changed conditions could force you to try some new things.

Stephen

ryans4

...it's mostly the rear sway bar.

My only guess would be to try running stock rear sway bar (if you aren't already), and maybe try running 600/650 for your next track event, just to see what 100lbs. less rear spring does for you.

Tomasz@Startup

There is. Call up Patrick.

Silver Streakin'

Would it be better if I up the front to 700? On the highway (the terrible roads of PA that they are), when there are multiple bumps or road separations or tar lines, the front starts to bounce while the rear is stable. I already have the front rebound set as low as it will go and it only gets worse as I increase it. I found that increasing the rear rebound cleaned a lot of it up.

As far as on the track and the tires, once I get another alignment when winter is over as long as I don't see my winter tires doing the same thing, I think I just need to see how this car does, or how much I stop over driving the car, when I hit the track with the power of the APR stage 3 kit. I can honestly say that I know I rush into corners too hard trying to get back on the throttle early to stay with cars that are double my power. I know that I need to smooth it out with a longer line and catch the throttle a little later.