STaSIS Track Sport questions
#21
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but I'm not sure how much, and I'm not sure what range the rear will be at when you drop the car. The quote below is what stasis lists as guidelines for alignments on their website. You'll notice they didn't even touch on rear camber. You could call them...they are exceedingly helpful with questions like this.
"Conservative Street Setup
Between 1/16 and 1/32 TOE IN front and 1/32 TOE IN rear
Ride height at 25.875" front and 26.000" rear
(-1.0 camber front)
Aggressive Street Setup
Between 1/32 and 0 TOE IN on all four corners
Ride height at 25.500" front and 25.625" rear
(-1.5 to -1.75 camber front)
Track Setup
Between 0 and 1/16 TOE OUT on all four corners
Ride height at 25.000" front and 25.250" rear
(-2.0 to -3.0 camber front)
WARNING! The Track Setup alignment recommendations are not for the street and will result in serious straight line instability. STaSIS accepts no responsibility with its alignment suggestions."
Regarding the spring rates...start at 600/700. You'll have 90 days to make up your mind, and stasis will exchange the springs at no charge, if you decide you want something different. I knew from the outset that I didn't want a stiff handling car, just better handling than OEM. The difference between 500/600 and 600/700 is marginal in terms of comfort, and the 600/700 definitely makes the car feel more connected to the road. Also realize that you have a choice of touring or sport valving on the shocks. The difference is the touring valving (what I have) is a little softer. Makes driving on bad roads more tolerable.
Even with my relatively soft set up, I will tell you that it's firmer than most suspension kits offered by other manufacturers. Plenty of people here have the 600/700 kits with sport valving, and find them just fine for the street, so it's mostly a question of personal preference. Since the shocks are not exchangable, it's a little more important to get the shocks that meet your needs, and worry less about the spring rates.
"Conservative Street Setup
Between 1/16 and 1/32 TOE IN front and 1/32 TOE IN rear
Ride height at 25.875" front and 26.000" rear
(-1.0 camber front)
Aggressive Street Setup
Between 1/32 and 0 TOE IN on all four corners
Ride height at 25.500" front and 25.625" rear
(-1.5 to -1.75 camber front)
Track Setup
Between 0 and 1/16 TOE OUT on all four corners
Ride height at 25.000" front and 25.250" rear
(-2.0 to -3.0 camber front)
WARNING! The Track Setup alignment recommendations are not for the street and will result in serious straight line instability. STaSIS accepts no responsibility with its alignment suggestions."
Regarding the spring rates...start at 600/700. You'll have 90 days to make up your mind, and stasis will exchange the springs at no charge, if you decide you want something different. I knew from the outset that I didn't want a stiff handling car, just better handling than OEM. The difference between 500/600 and 600/700 is marginal in terms of comfort, and the 600/700 definitely makes the car feel more connected to the road. Also realize that you have a choice of touring or sport valving on the shocks. The difference is the touring valving (what I have) is a little softer. Makes driving on bad roads more tolerable.
Even with my relatively soft set up, I will tell you that it's firmer than most suspension kits offered by other manufacturers. Plenty of people here have the 600/700 kits with sport valving, and find them just fine for the street, so it's mostly a question of personal preference. Since the shocks are not exchangable, it's a little more important to get the shocks that meet your needs, and worry less about the spring rates.
#22
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So do most people lower the car to the point where they get the amount of negative camber they want?
Then I suppose upper links are only necessary if one wants to go even lower?
Stephen
Then I suppose upper links are only necessary if one wants to go even lower?
Stephen
#23
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As for rates, it depends on what type of driving you do - if you're on the highway a great deal, 500/600 or 550/650 is nice, a nice compromise is 600/700 (this is the most popular), while if you track/auto-x etc, I'd recommend 700/800.
#25
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yes, yes, I know.... Those that are serious and have money to burn buy adjustable upper links. The rest of us deal with whatever camber we end up with after we set the height.
#30
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But the Audi is a heavy car and so the spring rate really helps it stay balanced. Don't lower the car too much because the travel is great with the stock sways and the hard springs. I'm 25.75" in front and 26 in the rear. The stasis kit wants to have a higher rear - the reverse of stock. I've had H&R coils with big sway bars and the rear stays flat, but it moves as a unit. The 800 springs with the stock bars keep both wheels planted on the road and the inside rear wheel tucks in and the outside wheel stays in contact, while the car stays flat. On the track my instructor was amazed with my wagon - I let him drive it - and he stopped telling me to slow down as I entered turns. With stasis, my 3600 lb wagon can haul dogs and kids and haul a** on the track. PS as far as under or over - the stasis setup will let you control the way the car drives and so it will correct the under and make it easy to induce the over if you like. I do power slides in the snow, and I lift in sharp up hill turns (for fun to pop the rear around), and sometimes I wish I could turn off the front wheels power (or go to a 25/75 split)...but it's all better with hard springs. And you should get the stasis track brakes too, and a chip, DPs, KO4s, and then the over will really work better....