Suspension Install question...
04-16-2002, 01:12 PM
#12
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I've done it 3 times in the last month. Here's the procedure: (edited)
-First remove the 10mm nut holding the HID leveling links together. Separate the links.
-I unbolted the front sway bar (16mm socket) bolt on that side.
-Remove the (18mm socket) bolt at the shock fork.
-Remove the 2 13mm nuts holding the top spring perch to the carriage. These are underneath caps up in the engine bay. Don't remove the 3 carriage bolts.
-Remove the (16mm socket) bolt that holds the upper control arms. The control arms should come free and 'pop' up out of the way a little.
Everything is loose now.
-Push down on the wheel assy with one hand and lift up the shock assy with the other to clear the lower arm. It took a little force but not much.
If you don't unbolt the HID leveling link, I'm pretty sure you can't get enough clearance.
Don't compress the springs until the whole spring/shock assy is off the car.
When reassembling: use a floor jack to lift the wheel assy to aid in putting the upper control arms back in. Lastly, I also lowered the car some using the floor jack to get the front sway bar bolt holes to line up. I could almost get all the bolts in by hand without a hammer. Only light tapping should be required if you line things up correctly first.
Remember. Just get the front sway bar bolts/nuts started. Don't torque the front sway bar bolts down until the car is sitting on the ground normally. Then torque them. This prevents torquing the sway bar bushings causing premature wear.
-I unbolted the front sway bar (16mm socket) bolt on that side.
-Remove the (18mm socket) bolt at the shock fork.
-Remove the 2 13mm nuts holding the top spring perch to the carriage. These are underneath caps up in the engine bay. Don't remove the 3 carriage bolts.
-Remove the (16mm socket) bolt that holds the upper control arms. The control arms should come free and 'pop' up out of the way a little.
Everything is loose now.
-Push down on the wheel assy with one hand and lift up the shock assy with the other to clear the lower arm. It took a little force but not much.
If you don't unbolt the HID leveling link, I'm pretty sure you can't get enough clearance.
Don't compress the springs until the whole spring/shock assy is off the car.
When reassembling: use a floor jack to lift the wheel assy to aid in putting the upper control arms back in. Lastly, I also lowered the car some using the floor jack to get the front sway bar bolt holes to line up. I could almost get all the bolts in by hand without a hammer. Only light tapping should be required if you line things up correctly first.
Remember. Just get the front sway bar bolts/nuts started. Don't torque the front sway bar bolts down until the car is sitting on the ground normally. Then torque them. This prevents torquing the sway bar bushings causing premature wear.
04-16-2002, 04:10 PM
#15
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Did you drop the top control links? There is one bolt in there to remove both of them
once that is done, the suspension/control arm will drop, allowing you to remove the top bolts, then pulling the assembly down enough to unbolt the lower bolt holding the shock on.
04-16-2002, 07:07 PM
#16
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Question, though - we were having a problem with the passenger side...
Is the autoleveling arm only on the driver's side?
We only tried the passenger side and then gave up.
-Dave Pramanik
We only tried the passenger side and then gave up.
-Dave Pramanik
04-16-2002, 07:19 PM
#18
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This may help:
When you unbolt the 13mm nuts up top along with everything else, the shock/spring assy will fall a bit. To get it out, don't try to pull the top out. Actually try to guide the two studs (the ones the 13mm nuts go to) back into the holes in the carriage. This will allow the assy to move up another 1/2 inch or so. First, guide it in the holes, and then hold it there with one hand down by the shock fork. It takes a little arm strength, but you are only supporting the weight of the assy. Then, push the rotor/caliper assy down with the other hand. Now, guide the fork over the lower arm and CV boot while making sure to keep the shock assy pushed up in the holes for the studs. If it falls out, you may not have enough clearance. If so, then start over getting it aligned up again.
04-16-2002, 07:24 PM
#19
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I think we tried that and there still just wasn't enough clearance...
What are your thoughts about removing the top bolt that attaches the two upper control arms as someone suggested below?
-Dave Pramanik
-Dave Pramanik
04-16-2002, 07:35 PM
#20
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1st suggestion is: why haven't you done that yet? No wonder.
Follow my procedure. Don't skip steps.
There are 6 fasteners to remove on the driver's side and 5 on the pass. side (no HID leveling links).
To remove that top bolt to release the upper arms:
-Get a 3/8" rachet w/ 16mm socket and a 16mm or adjustable wrench.
-Take off the nut.
-Using a small floor jack, jack up under the wheel assy so the arms aren't being pulled down as much. You can jack too far, so don't over do it.
-Using a hammer and drift punch of some sort, tap the bolt out. DON'T SCREW IT OUT or you'll probably mess up some of the threads and have to chase them to clean them up. You shouldn't have to hammer hard. You may try wiggling the control arms a bit while removing the bolt to help free it up also while it's being backed out.
This goes for all the bolts during reassembly:
Put all the bolts in with the bolt head facing the front of the car. Thus the nut will go on towards the rear of the car. AND....I recommend using loc-tite blue on all the screw threads. If you don't have any, put it together without it, and then go buy some. Take the nuts off and apply the loc-tite to the bolt threads; you won't have to remove the bolts which is the time consuming part.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/767227.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/767227.phtml</a</li></ul>
There are 6 fasteners to remove on the driver's side and 5 on the pass. side (no HID leveling links).
To remove that top bolt to release the upper arms:
-Get a 3/8" rachet w/ 16mm socket and a 16mm or adjustable wrench.
-Take off the nut.
-Using a small floor jack, jack up under the wheel assy so the arms aren't being pulled down as much. You can jack too far, so don't over do it.
-Using a hammer and drift punch of some sort, tap the bolt out. DON'T SCREW IT OUT or you'll probably mess up some of the threads and have to chase them to clean them up. You shouldn't have to hammer hard. You may try wiggling the control arms a bit while removing the bolt to help free it up also while it's being backed out.
This goes for all the bolts during reassembly:
Put all the bolts in with the bolt head facing the front of the car. Thus the nut will go on towards the rear of the car. AND....I recommend using loc-tite blue on all the screw threads. If you don't have any, put it together without it, and then go buy some. Take the nuts off and apply the loc-tite to the bolt threads; you won't have to remove the bolts which is the time consuming part.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/767227.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/767227.phtml</a</li></ul>