throttle position sensor 1/2 implausible signal
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where can i get these fast"car is in limp mode."I've been reading about people having wiring problems and mosture issues but this problem occured about a month ago and i put in a difforent ecu and went away. now its back, and the timing was great as i was on the way to get my emissions checked.
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I had a similar error and even tried to change the accelerator pedal (not bad ~$125 at the dealer), but mine turned out to be the ECU box itself. Water was running under the box and onto the connector and had corroded the contacts.
There's a foam gasket under the bottom half of the ECU box. Two nuts hold it down. The tuner that worked on my car only installed one nut, so heavy rain would run under the box and onto the connectors. I discovered this when the limp mode came on during the rinse cycle at the car wash (only took about 3 months of intermittent problems to realize it).
Bought a new gasket, one nut and some electrical cleaner and haven't had the problem sense.
What ever you change, be sure to let it autocal the throttle body (ignition on for a few minutes - you'll hear it cycle the throttle body).
There's a foam gasket under the bottom half of the ECU box. Two nuts hold it down. The tuner that worked on my car only installed one nut, so heavy rain would run under the box and onto the connectors. I discovered this when the limp mode came on during the rinse cycle at the car wash (only took about 3 months of intermittent problems to realize it).
Bought a new gasket, one nut and some electrical cleaner and haven't had the problem sense.
What ever you change, be sure to let it autocal the throttle body (ignition on for a few minutes - you'll hear it cycle the throttle body).
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Tough to say. If you let it autocal the throttle body, you can then clear the codes if it doesn't clear them by itself.
You could try a new accelerator pedal since its not too costly. I also have the one I pulled out of mine, since the dealer wouldn't take my new one back after I realized that the connector is bad. It should still be good, since my problem was corrosion/water on the connector.
You could try a new accelerator pedal since its not too costly. I also have the one I pulled out of mine, since the dealer wouldn't take my new one back after I realized that the connector is bad. It should still be good, since my problem was corrosion/water on the connector.
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There is a redundant circuit on the accelerator pedal. If both channels don't agree, the system generates a fault. I would assume the same redundancy exists on the throttle body.
You may be to the point of swapping out parts to see find out what it is or a visit to the dealer.
You may be to the point of swapping out parts to see find out what it is or a visit to the dealer.
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Not sure if you can buy the sensor seperate from the accelerator pedal. When i went to the dealer to get acclerator pedal sensor, the part number they has was for the whole assembly. Pretty much plug and play.
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installed pedal didnt work... checked conectors look good no sign of corrosion. TB makes a high pitch noise when i first turn car on?? could it be the TB itself? anyone in the philly area have one i could install to check? would only take an 2-3 hours... case of beer if you can help me out!