Faulk

Hey all,

I'm replacing the timing belt and all "kit" related items this weekend and wanted to get some pointers from the DIY talent on this forum. I purchased the Blauparts kit, and also ordered the Bentley manual. In addition, i picked up the DVD install from JHM. Blauparts includes step by step instructions and I've also located and printed the DIY from here:http://www.audidatabase.net/B5.html

I may have too much information at this point . . .

I guess I'm looking for the things to think about and remember while performing the timing belt install that would not be in the instructions.

In addition, I'm installing TBB, 710Ns, and if I have time my AWE Boost gauge and JHM Short throw shifter. Although that may make a LOOOONG weekend.

Much appreciated. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks
Ryan

Faulk

I forgot to mention that I rented the tool set from Blauparts which includes locks and pins, etc.

j2k2x

the spot for the crank lock pin, under the engine is hard to find. the pic in the bentley is too close. youll need a long and jointed extention to tighten that one once you find it. my radiator does not have a drain plug in the bottom which makes draining and flushing coolant interesting. hope you have one. but overall the job is pretty smooth. the blauparts kit makes it easy

bingS4

Pay attention to the important note in red on the last page of that tech artcle writeup about loosening the sprockets. Just marking the belt and replacing it without popping the sprokets loose is not the correct way. Good luck!

bingS4

Oh, and use the "screwdriver method" to help get the bumper off if you haven't done that before. That thing can be a real bish. Searching the forum for "screwdriver method" should result in pictures of the location to put in the screwdriver in the wheel well.

Oh, and the radiator hoses are also a bish to get off the first time. Pull the clips on the hoses and then slowly, gently pry with a broad screwdriver and pull smoothly really hard.

Some people say you pull the headlights when removing the lock carrier, but you don't need to do it.

Careful with your windshield washer fluid connections. They can be brittle. Clamp the hose before disconnecting to avoid spilling.

Don't disconnect the AC condenser.

When you're all done, rotate the crank around twice manually to make sure nothing binds. As long as you use the cam lock bar and the crank pin, you should be golden.

Faulk

Excellent pointers. Thank you

r1de23

you dont need that lock tool for the cams, just mark them with tape..

bingS4

Exactly the way to do the job like you're not supposed to and pretty much guarantee that your timing will be off by at least a little bit.

r1de23

words of a rookie mechanic...

nimmote

Alright, why exactly do you have to do the whole lock the cam thing? What do you gain with loosening the cam sprockets and re-tightening them. Seems like more to go wrong for me. I did it without the tool a couple months ago on my S4 and i just made multiple marks on all the teeth and the old belt, then i lined up the new belt next to the old belt, transfered the marks and counted teeth to double check it was exactly correct. I understand if your car has slipped a tooth maybe doing it the "right way" could fix it and i also know that the belts stretch, but if you count the teeth, it should be the exact same condition after replacing the belt as it was before you did right?? My S4 runs great afterward and im getting ready to do this again to my passat with the 2.8 block this week (same engine basically...minus a couple turbos). If the tool was only a few bucks, im still not sure i would risk screwing with the cam pulleys for no real benefit. Seriously though im not a "professional" mechanic, so if there is a real reason other than for the sake of matching the bentley manual, let me know.