ToyGuy short shifter install info/brief review
#1
ToyGuy short shifter install info/brief review
Got the ToyGuy short shifter (old style shifter), installed yesterday (drove 12 miles this AM, so limited testing for full review). Here are some random musings about the install - not sure about applicability to other short shifters or new style shifter install.
1) Toy Guy is a class act, my vote for AudiWorld Man of the Year. No experience with Piggie, I know another strong candidate - now if he wants to come and install my downpipes next weekend, my vote can be bought...
2) Install took me about 1.5-2 hrs alone (some mod experience - see my sig, all self-installed), but no shifter install experience.
3) Like any mod, don't be an idiot like me and start at 9:30 PM on a work/school night - even though you think it may only take an hour, you're usually wrong.
4) Circlip is a pain to remove - if shifter doesn't come with new one, buy from dealer. This allows you to indiscriminately rip this bastrd off and throw it away.
5)To remove the T20 torx screws from the shifter guide rails, have a torx driver; I found a ratchet-based torx attachement rather bulky to get in there, and needed to completely remove the 4 10mm nuts holding the shifter "tub" in place. Once these 4 were removed, I had enough play to get my ratchet/torx driver in there to get at the 4 screws.
6) A magnetic wand is useful to get at anything that falls into the plastic shifter tub, but if something falls outside the tub you're hosed completely (falls down with a clink, but never makes it to the ground). I would have some spare 10mm nuts on hand (not sure exact kind). More importantly, the 4 T-20 torx screws are sheet metal screws. If one of these is lost, they can be replaces with a 1-1.25 inch #12 sheet metal screw (not that I lost one or anything).
7) When removing the shifter rod from the assembly, there is a round hole on the side of the white plastic part of the assembly. Put your finger over this and hold with all your might, as a spring loaded plunger will shoot out of here with high velocity if you don't do this. Once the shifter rod is pulled out beyond this hole, the spring and plunger are released, you will feel them do so, and can get them out safely. If you are not prepared, the spring and plunger will likely shoot out, hit the windshield, and appear to be lost forever causing much concern and sweating on your part (especially if working at 11PM). Have no fear, in all liklihood, the spring will be on the floor of the car, and the white plastic plunger (looks like a toy bullet) will be under your lawnmower in the garage (at least mine was).
8) I fully endorse using tape to secure the 6mm hex bolts (especially the lower one) and the torx bolts to their respective drivers when reinserting them. I wouldn't trust a magnetic tool alone. If they fall into the plastic shifter tub, they are hard to get at (again, magnetic wand, or very long needle nose plier/grasping instrument), and may necessitate taking the shifter assembly out to get at them (fortunately I did not have to do this).
After my limited drive today, I found the shifter as advertised by many posts on AW - feels stock in terms of smoothness of engagement, but with far shorter throws. The only minor feel difference I noted is that it seems from neutral, throws to get into odd numbered gears are longer than throws to get into even numbered gears. I assume I just need some minor tweaking.
My only comparison is with a Tanoga shortshifter -this is clearly not as short as that, but easier to get into gear/not quite as notchy.
This shifter is certainly a good investment. I was on the fence about ponying up full price for other short shifters out there, but this is a must do.
1) Toy Guy is a class act, my vote for AudiWorld Man of the Year. No experience with Piggie, I know another strong candidate - now if he wants to come and install my downpipes next weekend, my vote can be bought...
2) Install took me about 1.5-2 hrs alone (some mod experience - see my sig, all self-installed), but no shifter install experience.
3) Like any mod, don't be an idiot like me and start at 9:30 PM on a work/school night - even though you think it may only take an hour, you're usually wrong.
4) Circlip is a pain to remove - if shifter doesn't come with new one, buy from dealer. This allows you to indiscriminately rip this bastrd off and throw it away.
5)To remove the T20 torx screws from the shifter guide rails, have a torx driver; I found a ratchet-based torx attachement rather bulky to get in there, and needed to completely remove the 4 10mm nuts holding the shifter "tub" in place. Once these 4 were removed, I had enough play to get my ratchet/torx driver in there to get at the 4 screws.
6) A magnetic wand is useful to get at anything that falls into the plastic shifter tub, but if something falls outside the tub you're hosed completely (falls down with a clink, but never makes it to the ground). I would have some spare 10mm nuts on hand (not sure exact kind). More importantly, the 4 T-20 torx screws are sheet metal screws. If one of these is lost, they can be replaces with a 1-1.25 inch #12 sheet metal screw (not that I lost one or anything).
7) When removing the shifter rod from the assembly, there is a round hole on the side of the white plastic part of the assembly. Put your finger over this and hold with all your might, as a spring loaded plunger will shoot out of here with high velocity if you don't do this. Once the shifter rod is pulled out beyond this hole, the spring and plunger are released, you will feel them do so, and can get them out safely. If you are not prepared, the spring and plunger will likely shoot out, hit the windshield, and appear to be lost forever causing much concern and sweating on your part (especially if working at 11PM). Have no fear, in all liklihood, the spring will be on the floor of the car, and the white plastic plunger (looks like a toy bullet) will be under your lawnmower in the garage (at least mine was).
8) I fully endorse using tape to secure the 6mm hex bolts (especially the lower one) and the torx bolts to their respective drivers when reinserting them. I wouldn't trust a magnetic tool alone. If they fall into the plastic shifter tub, they are hard to get at (again, magnetic wand, or very long needle nose plier/grasping instrument), and may necessitate taking the shifter assembly out to get at them (fortunately I did not have to do this).
After my limited drive today, I found the shifter as advertised by many posts on AW - feels stock in terms of smoothness of engagement, but with far shorter throws. The only minor feel difference I noted is that it seems from neutral, throws to get into odd numbered gears are longer than throws to get into even numbered gears. I assume I just need some minor tweaking.
My only comparison is with a Tanoga shortshifter -this is clearly not as short as that, but easier to get into gear/not quite as notchy.
This shifter is certainly a good investment. I was on the fence about ponying up full price for other short shifters out there, but this is a must do.
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