Turbos: RS6 vs GT25R vs GT28R vs K04?
#58
Re: LOL. welding heavy gauge my sister can do pretty, do some 0.065" and talk to me...
Marc I'm not here to cause any trouble but heres the facts.. The DPS R 0.065 wall which is 16 gauge the manifolds R schedule 10, which is almost twice as thick as your manifolds. Maybe you don't realize when you get that thick of SS you can't buy u bends only short sections.. The waste gate tube your pointing out looks exactly like the rest of the welds on the dp which R awesome, your looking at a glare or a light issue. All the welds on the manifolds look exactly like the welds shown here. I had an older pic that shows that dp again, I don't know anyone who would spend time to make the dps look awesome but then Burger up the last weld. I don't control what people say and I didn't pick your manis and dps apart I can but won't.. I'm having trouble posting pics the link is down.. I will try later.
#59
in my opinion, it depends on your personal preference. Here's what I would do:)
RS6 turbos spool up very fast and have more potential than K04 hybrids. Considering the recent new affordable RS6 products.. I think K04 kits are pretty much obsolete. The RS6 torque curve is very wide. That's great for 90% of the driving we do.. which is on the street.
GT28 turbos take longer to spool but will retain more torque in the upper rpms, which is great for high hp numbers and drag racing. Only real hard core guys should get gt28 kits because putting up with lag for daily driving wouldn't be fun unless you REALLY need that next level of hp.
I see no reason to go with GT25's. The RS6 turbos bridge the gap to GT28's and are very affordable these days.
If I had the money and opportunity.. I would do the following:
Low miles nogaro or laser avant with "boss hog" white leather $20k
Tial GT28rs bolt on kit with custom inlet pipes (it fits stock downpipe flanges and manifolds) $6k
ASP twin disc clutch (high torque capacity and low pedal effort) $1800
Pay ASP to install titanium rods $3200
ER intercoolers $1300
EPL fueling/tuning $3k
Techtonics exhaust, or the 4" single custom system BlackS4tt (Josh) is running $1k
ASP 3" downpipes (they're 3" dia) $1200?
Stasis motorsports and rear lsd $5500
That's only $23k in mods for the ultimate B5 S4.
GT28 turbos take longer to spool but will retain more torque in the upper rpms, which is great for high hp numbers and drag racing. Only real hard core guys should get gt28 kits because putting up with lag for daily driving wouldn't be fun unless you REALLY need that next level of hp.
I see no reason to go with GT25's. The RS6 turbos bridge the gap to GT28's and are very affordable these days.
If I had the money and opportunity.. I would do the following:
Low miles nogaro or laser avant with "boss hog" white leather $20k
Tial GT28rs bolt on kit with custom inlet pipes (it fits stock downpipe flanges and manifolds) $6k
ASP twin disc clutch (high torque capacity and low pedal effort) $1800
Pay ASP to install titanium rods $3200
ER intercoolers $1300
EPL fueling/tuning $3k
Techtonics exhaust, or the 4" single custom system BlackS4tt (Josh) is running $1k
ASP 3" downpipes (they're 3" dia) $1200?
Stasis motorsports and rear lsd $5500
That's only $23k in mods for the ultimate B5 S4.
#60
i can tell you form looking inside the headers you bought its messy inside. I believe the ASP header
are mandrel bent, somoene correct me if im wrong. hence no welding crap on the inside of the headers. Which happens to be the most critical area to make extra HP, you want a smooth inner wall so the exhaust gasses are not disrupted upon exiting the ehader. If there is, it can cause hot spots within the header and blow through the header wall. If there is ANY bumps or crap within the header then all that work is for nothing.
I'm in no way trying to take away from your out of the ordinary setup. I just hope you take what ive said into account. theres no cheap way to get a set of headers built without cutting corners(no mandrel bent pipes). either way i hope it works out for you.
I worked with a 20 year drag racing veteran in australia which helped me design the first and only set of stainless steel watercooled headers for my ford 351w boat motor. with a 3" ID and 4" OD. because i helped design them, they cost me 1500 and sell for 2500 retail. In testing, i picked up 500 rpm 4-6mph at WOT which equates to about 30hp. I learned a lot of info about exhaust with that project and thought i would ring in.
<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d194/beerock69/me%20pics/boat/?action=view¤t=DSCF0091.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d194/beerock69/me%20pics/boat/DSCF0091.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I'm in no way trying to take away from your out of the ordinary setup. I just hope you take what ive said into account. theres no cheap way to get a set of headers built without cutting corners(no mandrel bent pipes). either way i hope it works out for you.
I worked with a 20 year drag racing veteran in australia which helped me design the first and only set of stainless steel watercooled headers for my ford 351w boat motor. with a 3" ID and 4" OD. because i helped design them, they cost me 1500 and sell for 2500 retail. In testing, i picked up 500 rpm 4-6mph at WOT which equates to about 30hp. I learned a lot of info about exhaust with that project and thought i would ring in.
<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d194/beerock69/me%20pics/boat/?action=view¤t=DSCF0091.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d194/beerock69/me%20pics/boat/DSCF0091.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>