Update on front-end clunking noise...
#1
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Update on front-end clunking noise...
Had my mechanic take a quick look. He put the car up on the rack and left the wheels on. He wiggled the wheels and said there's definitely more play than normal....and said it's probably my steering rack. He said that my control arms aren't shot but there's some play in them.
Should I just get OEM control arms again? Or go aftermarket? Any harm in just keeping the existing ones in there until they *really* start getting bad? I'd rather not drop more cash right now after my Stg.3 upgrade.
Should I just get OEM control arms again? Or go aftermarket? Any harm in just keeping the existing ones in there until they *really* start getting bad? I'd rather not drop more cash right now after my Stg.3 upgrade.
#2
I'd replace the control arm, any play is bad
Get the Febi-Bilstien kit (basically the A4 kit). It's about $400 cheaper and works on the S4. You're steering rack is probably fine. More than likely it's the inner TRE.
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I'd like to get the warranty company to cover...but they only replace "broken" things...
so I have to talk to my mechanic Seriously, though, are most going with this Bilstein-Febi setup? Hmm.
What can I do to verify that it's the CA's versus the TRE versus the steering rack?
What can I do to verify that it's the CA's versus the TRE versus the steering rack?
#5
Yep, I've got the Febi's and they are workin out great
DAP has had the Febi's on his car for even longer and I haven't heard of any complaints from him either. I think the kit goes for 450-500 vs. the S4 kit which is over 800 IIRC.
To check the play in the TRE jack up the car and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and push back and forth. If there is play in the outer TRE you'll be able to see and feel it. There is a black plastic boot covering the inner TRE so that's more difficult to tell. I took the outer TRE out of the upright and as able to push and pull on the steering arm to see if the inner one was loose. Seeing if there is play in the CA's is more difficult. When you jack up the car the suspension loads the CA's and you wont necessarily be able to feel any play. If you can, they are beyond shot and need to be replaced ASAP. The best way to tell is by driving the car. If you are getting clunking over bumps then it's time to replace them. I'm not really sure how to tell if the steering rack is shot vs. something else. I guess if both your TRE's are fine (and you are 100% they are not the problem) but there is still play in the shaft then it could be the rack.
To check the play in the TRE jack up the car and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and push back and forth. If there is play in the outer TRE you'll be able to see and feel it. There is a black plastic boot covering the inner TRE so that's more difficult to tell. I took the outer TRE out of the upright and as able to push and pull on the steering arm to see if the inner one was loose. Seeing if there is play in the CA's is more difficult. When you jack up the car the suspension loads the CA's and you wont necessarily be able to feel any play. If you can, they are beyond shot and need to be replaced ASAP. The best way to tell is by driving the car. If you are getting clunking over bumps then it's time to replace them. I'm not really sure how to tell if the steering rack is shot vs. something else. I guess if both your TRE's are fine (and you are 100% they are not the problem) but there is still play in the shaft then it could be the rack.
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yes, do this before you go wasting money on parts you MAY NOT need to replace
i had a similar problem at a stand still if i rocked the steering wheel back and forth i heard the noise, i called up an audi mech and explained to him what was going on, he told me to get the car to a lift, grab the tire at 9&3 o'clock and move it back and forth, if the inner tie rod moves left to right (as you are looking at it) then the tie rod is shot, if it moves up and down, its a loose rack bolt... the thing is, depending on the side, it can be a pain to get to... mine was the pass. side so i had to remove the battery and all components to get to the battery because the bolt (12 point bolt by the way, not sure on size) is under the battery... good luck boss