Who has changed their own timing belt?
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I just turned 89k on mine.
I am debating on doing it myself rather than paying the $550 in labor cost.
Out of anyone who has done it themselves; would you do it again, or would you replace any other parts besides whats in the ECS "ultimate timing belt kit"?
Thanks in advance.
I am debating on doing it myself rather than paying the $550 in labor cost.
Out of anyone who has done it themselves; would you do it again, or would you replace any other parts besides whats in the ECS "ultimate timing belt kit"?
Thanks in advance.
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ECS doesn't include that with their ultimate kit, but I would pony up for the part (extra $100+) for peace of mind.
You can optionally change the serpentine belt tensioner as well, however once you've pulled apart the front end to do the job once, you'll realize that these accessory tensioners are fairly easy to get to when they fail later. So you don't need to bother with the accessory belt tensioner really speaking.
If you have any interest in installing an APR bipipe, now is a good opportunity to do it. Not that it can't be installed later, but it's a little easier when everything is already off the front of the car (kinda like the tensioners).
If you don't decide to do the bipipe, inspect your throttle body boot, and if it hasn't been replaced in the last 50K miles, just get a new one and replace it now. This is something that can easily be done at a later date, but you're already there tinkering...it's another 5 minutes to address something most people don't bother with until it fails.
That's all that really comes to mind on the front of the engine.
You can optionally change the serpentine belt tensioner as well, however once you've pulled apart the front end to do the job once, you'll realize that these accessory tensioners are fairly easy to get to when they fail later. So you don't need to bother with the accessory belt tensioner really speaking.
If you have any interest in installing an APR bipipe, now is a good opportunity to do it. Not that it can't be installed later, but it's a little easier when everything is already off the front of the car (kinda like the tensioners).
If you don't decide to do the bipipe, inspect your throttle body boot, and if it hasn't been replaced in the last 50K miles, just get a new one and replace it now. This is something that can easily be done at a later date, but you're already there tinkering...it's another 5 minutes to address something most people don't bother with until it fails.
That's all that really comes to mind on the front of the engine.
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out of wook if necessary rather than buying the tool.
Another question though, since I have read discrepancies; when I am at TDC are the large holes to the outside or the small. I'm speaking of the holes on the cam-lock tool.
In the tech article I believe it says to put the larger holes outboard but I think I read the opposite somewhere else.
Which is it?
Another question though, since I have read discrepancies; when I am at TDC are the large holes to the outside or the small. I'm speaking of the holes on the cam-lock tool.
In the tech article I believe it says to put the larger holes outboard but I think I read the opposite somewhere else.
Which is it?
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going to do this repair at my parents house because they have a very nice place to work, except for the fact that it is about 40 miles from any civilization. If I run into a problem or missing part/tool, than I wasted the entire day.
,,,by "the tool" I mean the fancy "chop-stix" fan-removal tool.
,,,by "the tool" I mean the fancy "chop-stix" fan-removal tool.