ZIV3R

Just bought my 2nd B5 S4 Tip (whoops...my first was a 6speed and yeah...). Drove it roughly 25 miles on the highway after buying it and check engine light comes on! Greeeaaat! So that was a couple of days ago... just got a vag-com in the mail... ran the codes and looking at $5K stealer price or ~$3K through an independent.

Anybody know what the deal is with the camshaft stuff below? I read some threads that lead me to believe that they are most likely sensor related?



Friday,19,February,2010,19:22:05:21561
VCDS Version: Release 908.1
Data version: 20091018

Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77

----------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
Part No: 8D0 907 551 B
Component: 2.7l V6/5VT G01 0003
Coding: 06651
Shop #: WSC 02136

6 Faults Found:
17831 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1: Insufficient Flow
P1423 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17819 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2: Insufficient Flow
P1411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18032 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)
P1624 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17930 - Camshaft Adjustment; Bank 2: Malfunction
P1522 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17927 - Camshaft Adjustment; Bank 1: Malfunction
P1519 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17755 - Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correl.
P1347 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 8D0 927 156 BS
Component: AG5 01V 2.7l5VT USA 3132
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00000

1 Fault Found:
17125 - Torque Converter Clutch: Stuck OFF / No Power being transferred
P0741 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

donromani

umm..return the car. Most states have a buyer protection law or "lemon law" on the books that gives you 30 days to get your money back.

ZIV3R

I bought the car Private Party... Wouldnt that law be only applicable if purchased from a Dealer? I guess Ill do some research. Thanks for the feedback.

donromani

Nope, those laws were specifically designed to protect buyers in private party sales. I hope you find you have that law on the books because you got a bad deal there.

ZIV3R

i bought the car in illinois, and just titled it in indiana. i researched the laws, and came up dry... here is the link:

http://www.weblocator.com/attorney/i...nsumer.html#20

if i could find something that shows this guy that I could take him to court somehow, I would most definitely.

But... I dont think i have a leg to stand on because the car was bought as is..

Thanks for your thoughts.

jamesdmanley

its my understanding that lemon laws refer to vehicles that cant be repaired, ie recurring problems. if you think you want to sue the seller in civil court youre going to have to be able to show that the seller had prior knowlege that he withheld from you or that a reasonable person should know (or something along those lines). since the purchase was over state lines you might be covered under federal inter-state commerce law. im no lawyer, but i play one on the internet, and every states tort laws are different.

hans j

You need to check your diverter valves and/or secondairy air system.
You need a torque converter.
You need to make sure your cam tensioners are plugged in.
You need to check cam timing on driver side bank.

ZIV3R

thanks for the legal assistance even tho your not a lawyer. i wont be able to prove that he knew prior, but in hind site, it was obvious he didnt want to part with the car, but new he had to in order to save his wallet and dent mine.

that being said... im not interested in going after the guy... it would be a task in itself and im a firm believer in the golden rule, so ill get a positive boost elsewhere hopefully.

I am aware of the torque converter issue and see that 3zero3 motorsport is considered the best way to go. So 800 bucks there and then 12 hours of labor. Im hoping to get that part dne for around $1600-$1700. Probably going to go to vfc or cpt in chicagoland... only crappy thing is that i am 3.5 hours away and really dont want to drive with the current issues.

I spoke with a mechanic (via email) and this is what he said:

"I would almost say without looking at it you are going to want to minimally get the combi valves and gaskets for the secondary air issue. Can you hear the pump run at cold start up? if not I would get a pump and IIRC it's a 40 amp maxi fuse."

Does that make sense to you guys? What pump do you think he is talking about? (i asked him and he hasnt responded just yet).

Im hoping to not spend more than $2500 on all this going to the independent dealer, but its looking more like 3K.

ZIV3R

hey hans... are any of the points you mentioned easy to check... like checking to see if the cam tensioner is plugged in?

I am continuing to drive the car until i take it to the dealer... is that a bad idea or an extremely bad idea?

hans j

Just a visual check looking at them will tell you, but since they are intermittent, they are probably plugged in.

You can check secondary air with your new VAG-COM cable clear the codes, the car needs to be warmed up, go to measuring blocks and select 077, then switch to basic settings and the test should run. You have an air pump towards the back of the engine and it sounds like a vacuum cleaner. It's possible it doesn't work or the tee between the combi valve lines is broken but seriously, make sure the diverter valves hold vacuum first. And don't just go and replace stuff, test it first.

I've seen tons of those torque converter codes and a few front seals going bad due to it. When that happens it spits out all the fluid and it's bad news. Honestly I would recommend doing it ASAP because I don't want to be someone that said you could drive it and in 5 days it blows up

You still need to check the cam timing because the car can see the driver side cam and crank aren't lined up (according to the code). Was the timing belt done before you bought it? Could of had cam tensioner malfunctions due to no oil too? Those can be tested in VAG-COM also, around block 097 or something... Clear the codes and see what comes back up right away.