Why aren't cross-drilled rotors a wise choice to replace stock rotors with again?
#32
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i would go with oem replacment. no slotting or cross drilling.
i resently purchased brakes thorugh mike at vast and went with a slotted front rotor, and oem rear replacements. i went with a slotted because i plan on tracking the car and from the research i did, the slots should help with the initial bite....which is all i can really hope for on a track since the braking system wont be upgraded, and the stock brakes are less than efficient for serious track use.
joe
i resently purchased brakes thorugh mike at vast and went with a slotted front rotor, and oem rear replacements. i went with a slotted because i plan on tracking the car and from the research i did, the slots should help with the initial bite....which is all i can really hope for on a track since the braking system wont be upgraded, and the stock brakes are less than efficient for serious track use.
joe
#38
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I'm very curious to see how its done and how expensive it might be. Could this potentially be more cost effective than a BBK, or is there no way ducting alone can reduce the fade HP2s experience?
#39
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though with these cars some of the rotors vent to the outside, rather than the inside as is common.
I haven't seen any for Audis, but some ducting kits (Cool Brake is/was one) include round fiberglass plates that mount behind the hub where the backing plate usually goes. It seals the whole center area, and has a round sleeve extending out for the hose to mount to. Forces air through the internal cooling vanes and works great.
I haven't seen any for Audis, but some ducting kits (Cool Brake is/was one) include round fiberglass plates that mount behind the hub where the backing plate usually goes. It seals the whole center area, and has a round sleeve extending out for the hose to mount to. Forces air through the internal cooling vanes and works great.