2013 Audi S6 - Audio System Upgrade
09-19-2013, 10:28 AM
#31
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hi subter, here is my current plan and I would appreciate any advice or thoughts you have.
First of all, I am actually going to be doing this system in a 2014 RS5 (B8 platform) and not an S6. I am hoping that the same type of situation exists as the B7 as you mentioned, with adequate clearance for new 6.5" component speakers to drop into the factory locations, with little custom fabrication. Where I am a bit out of my comfort zone in this car is that 1. I have never done an install on an Audi, or even a German car 2. I have never worked with one of these factory systems where they have 14 speakers in the stock configuration and 3. Integration with a factory head unit/electronics (Audi MMI).
First of all, I am actually going to be doing this system in a 2014 RS5 (B8 platform) and not an S6. I am hoping that the same type of situation exists as the B7 as you mentioned, with adequate clearance for new 6.5" component speakers to drop into the factory locations, with little custom fabrication. Where I am a bit out of my comfort zone in this car is that 1. I have never done an install on an Audi, or even a German car 2. I have never worked with one of these factory systems where they have 14 speakers in the stock configuration and 3. Integration with a factory head unit/electronics (Audi MMI).
What I was originally planning for this system is to do the Focal 2-way 165 KRX2's in the front and rear, or possibly just those in the front and a pair of Focal coaxials in the rear. I am planning to make this call one I get to spend quality time with the vehicle and assess what is in place from the factory, depth restrictions, etc..
As for the speaker placements in the RS5, I am not familiar with them but my hunch is that they also have a 3-way setup in front. You might want to consider the 165 KRX3 if the RS5 has the door space to accommodate.
I mentioned the MoBridge + BitOne combo and I am planning to do digital all the way to the amp, as well as potentially the iStreamer, if you recommend that brand still, which it sounds like you do.
If the MoBridge is not fully compatible with the bluetooth in my car, I will decline to make that part of my system. Will simply use the BitOne connected to the Bose amplifier in that case.
For amplification, I was planning to do the Audison Voce 5.1 to power the front and rears and the 10w7 sub... OR do a Voce 4 channel and a separate Voce 1 channel for the subwoofer. I was thinking this would simply come down to price and mounting space.
There are a few topics to cover with your proposed amplifier setups:
1. Power to your subwoofer. The JL Audio 10W7 subwoofer is a 3 ohm sub with power handling up to 750 Watts.
The AV5.1k will output about 750-800 Watts @ 3 ohms, I believe. They don't actually give a spec for that in the tech sheet, but they claim 600 Watts @ 4 ohms and 1000 Watts @ 2 ohms.
In my opinion, the AV5.1k will be perfect for running a 10W7 or a 12W7.
The Voce AV Uno, which is the 1 channel amp, is way too much power for a single 10W7. In fact, it's probably too much power for two 10W7s. You would definitely void your subwoofer's warranty with that amp. It would be better suited for running two 13W7s.
2. Main speaker setups. Something to keep in mind is that the AV5.1k has the following tech specs:
2 x 75 Watts (Class A) 4 ohm
2 x 140 Watts (Class AB) 4 ohm
1 x 600 Watts (Class D) 4 ohm
or 1 x 1000 Watts (Class D) 2 ohm
(In the case of a JL Audio W7 woofer, which is 3 ohms, the mono channel with output approx. 800 Watts)
The ideal setup for this amplifier is to run a 2-way Active speaker set and a subwoofer. One of the big advantages of this amp with the BitOne is the fully customizable Active Crossover.
You can certainly run front and rear speakers with it, as you propose, but you will have to go with the passive crossovers. In addition, you would probably want to put the Class A channels on the rear speakers since the AB channels are more powerful.
Assuming the RS5 has 3-way speaker locations available, one idea to consider would be to go with the Focal 165 KRX3 speakers as follows:
2 x 75 W --> Tweeter + Midrange (passive crossover)
2 x 140 W --> Midbass (active crossover)
1 x 800 W --> JL Audio 10W7 (active crossover)
In this case, you would not have rear fill speakers.
Personally, I am not going to use rear fill in my car. It's not as important as you might think initially, especially in a 2 door car like your RS5.
My initial plan was to mount the amplifiers to the backs of the back seats, giving them vertical heat dissipation and a bit better ventilation in general. Here in Dallas, heat can be a real issue.
The AV5.1k measures 18.5" x 8.66" x 2.28"
I am at work right now and I don't have the laptop computer with me. When I get to that computer, I can pull up the BitOne software and do a quick system design for you and print the screen to a PDF. You can see the proposed setups visually that way.
09-19-2013, 06:22 PM
#32
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The K2 power series from Focal would have been my suggestion for you, so you are on the right track there.
As for the speaker placements in the RS5, I am not familiar with them but my hunch is that they also have a 3-way setup in front. You might want to consider the 165 KRX3 if the RS5 has the door space to accommodate.
As for the speaker placements in the RS5, I am not familiar with them but my hunch is that they also have a 3-way setup in front. You might want to consider the 165 KRX3 if the RS5 has the door space to accommodate.
If the MoBridge works with the MMI in the RS5, then that seems to be a good way to go. I have never owned or used a MoBridge before, so I'm still in the research phase on that item myself. I have heard conflicting reports about the compatibility of the MoBridge with the MMI3G bluetooth. Still awaiting a final response from MoBridge about it.
If the MoBridge is not fully compatible with the bluetooth in my car, I will decline to make that part of my system. Will simply use the BitOne connected to the Bose amplifier in that case.
If the MoBridge is not fully compatible with the bluetooth in my car, I will decline to make that part of my system. Will simply use the BitOne connected to the Bose amplifier in that case.
I already own a Voce AV5.1k amp, and used it in my BMW previously. It's a fantastic amplifier, especially if you have the BitOne.
There are a few topics to cover with your proposed amplifier setups:
1. Power to your subwoofer. The JL Audio 10W7 subwoofer is a 3 ohm sub with power handling up to 750 Watts.
The AV5.1k will output about 750-800 Watts @ 3 ohms, I believe. They don't actually give a spec for that in the tech sheet, but they claim 600 Watts @ 4 ohms and 1000 Watts @ 2 ohms.
In my opinion, the AV5.1k will be perfect for running a 10W7 or a 12W7.
There are a few topics to cover with your proposed amplifier setups:
1. Power to your subwoofer. The JL Audio 10W7 subwoofer is a 3 ohm sub with power handling up to 750 Watts.
The AV5.1k will output about 750-800 Watts @ 3 ohms, I believe. They don't actually give a spec for that in the tech sheet, but they claim 600 Watts @ 4 ohms and 1000 Watts @ 2 ohms.
In my opinion, the AV5.1k will be perfect for running a 10W7 or a 12W7.
Thank you for the recommendations and breakdown here.
2. Main speaker setups. Something to keep in mind is that the AV5.1k has the following tech specs:
2 x 75 Watts (Class A) 4 ohm
2 x 140 Watts (Class AB) 4 ohm
1 x 600 Watts (Class D) 4 ohm
or 1 x 1000 Watts (Class D) 2 ohm
(In the case of a JL Audio W7 woofer, which is 3 ohms, the mono channel with output approx. 800 Watts)
The ideal setup for this amplifier is to run a 2-way Active speaker set and a subwoofer. One of the big advantages of this amp with the BitOne is the fully customizable Active Crossover.
You can certainly run front and rear speakers with it, as you propose, but you will have to go with the passive crossovers. In addition, you would probably want to put the Class A channels on the rear speakers since the AB channels are more powerful.
Assuming the RS5 has 3-way speaker locations available, one idea to consider would be to go with the Focal 165 KRX3 speakers as follows:
2 x 75 W --> Tweeter + Midrange (passive crossover)
2 x 140 W --> Midbass (active crossover)
1 x 800 W --> JL Audio 10W7 (active crossover)
In this case, you would not have rear fill speakers.
Personally, I am not going to use rear fill in my car. It's not as important as you might think initially, especially in a 2 door car like your RS5.
2 x 75 W --> Tweeter + Midrange (passive crossover)
2 x 140 W --> Midbass (active crossover)
1 x 800 W --> JL Audio 10W7 (active crossover)
In this case, you would not have rear fill speakers.
Personally, I am not going to use rear fill in my car. It's not as important as you might think initially, especially in a 2 door car like your RS5.
I guess the AV due might be possible to use in conjunction with the 5.1k, but I am guessing that comes with a pretty steep price tag and again is almost too much power... Any other thoughts?
Don't worry about cooling for the Voce amps. The Voce series amps all have internal cooling fans. You can mount them just about any orientation you like. I mounted mine upside down beneath the rear deck with absolutely no overheating issues, and I live in Florida.
The AV5.1k measures 18.5" x 8.66" x 2.28"
The AV5.1k measures 18.5" x 8.66" x 2.28"
Thanks man! I appreciate that!
09-20-2013, 12:50 PM
#34
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sorry for the delay. I finally found some time to pull up the BitOne software and prepare a mock setup file.
Here are some screen captures from the BitOne software. I will try to explain what is going on in each photo.
The first picture is showing the Master Input assignments I have proposed for my car assuming I do NOT use the MoBridge. In this case, the BitOne would be connected directly to the Bose amplifier. The Bose amp has 12 outputs, but the BitOne only has 8 inputs. Therefore, I have selected the inputs shown in the bottom-left corner of the picture below:
The BitOne takes these inputs and sums the signal between them. It then analyses the signal to determine if there is any factory equalization happening in the Bose amp, and counters it if necessary. This yields a flat signal which the BitOne can then process itself.
The next series of pictures show my proposed speaker configuration with 3-way components in front and a subwoofer. Ignore the crossover curves shown. I did not adjust them for this example.
The important thing to see here is that I am running all speakers here in Active crossover mode, which means each speaker takes up an output channel on the BitOne. 6 speakers in front plus 1 subwoofer = 7 channels used.
Tweeters
Midrange
Woofers
In order to power the proposed speaker configuration shown above, I will be using the following amplifiers:
Audison Voce AV5.1k 5-channels
Audison Voce AV Due 2-channels
The 5 channel amp will power the tweeters, midrange, and subwoofer.
The 2 channel amp powers the woofers.
Here is the proposal you first mentioned to me for your RS5.
This is for the Focal 165 KRX2 components in front and rear, being run by the Audison Voce 5.1k amp.
In this scenario, you will need to use the passive crossover networks that come with the speakers. See the bottom left corner of the picture below which shows woofers + tweeters grouped together by crossovers.
My suggestion yesterday was for you to consider a 3-way component set up front. The Focal 165 KRX3.
You could run this type of setup with just the Audison Voce AV5.1k amplifier if you wanted. Or you could do a 2 amp setup like I am planning. If you go with just the 1 amp, this is how it would look in the BitOne.
Tweeter + Midrange (passive crossover)
Woofer + subwoofer (active crossover)
You will notice there are 3 channels left available in the BitOne in the above picture. This means you could still add a set of rear speakers if they are passively crossed over. Here is how that would look:
You would need another 2 channels of amplification in this scenario, but you would get your 3-way speakers in front plus rear fill and a subwoofer.
I would suggest the Voce Av5.1k be used as follows:
2 x 75 Watts (front tweet + mid)
2 x 140 Watts (rear fill)
mono channel to the subwoofer
Then you could add the Voce AV Due like I plan to run.
That would run the front woofers 2 x 260 Watts.
Here are some screen captures from the BitOne software. I will try to explain what is going on in each photo.
The first picture is showing the Master Input assignments I have proposed for my car assuming I do NOT use the MoBridge. In this case, the BitOne would be connected directly to the Bose amplifier. The Bose amp has 12 outputs, but the BitOne only has 8 inputs. Therefore, I have selected the inputs shown in the bottom-left corner of the picture below:
The BitOne takes these inputs and sums the signal between them. It then analyses the signal to determine if there is any factory equalization happening in the Bose amp, and counters it if necessary. This yields a flat signal which the BitOne can then process itself.
The next series of pictures show my proposed speaker configuration with 3-way components in front and a subwoofer. Ignore the crossover curves shown. I did not adjust them for this example.
The important thing to see here is that I am running all speakers here in Active crossover mode, which means each speaker takes up an output channel on the BitOne. 6 speakers in front plus 1 subwoofer = 7 channels used.
Tweeters
Midrange
Woofers
In order to power the proposed speaker configuration shown above, I will be using the following amplifiers:
Audison Voce AV5.1k 5-channels
Audison Voce AV Due 2-channels
The 5 channel amp will power the tweeters, midrange, and subwoofer.
The 2 channel amp powers the woofers.
Here is the proposal you first mentioned to me for your RS5.
This is for the Focal 165 KRX2 components in front and rear, being run by the Audison Voce 5.1k amp.
In this scenario, you will need to use the passive crossover networks that come with the speakers. See the bottom left corner of the picture below which shows woofers + tweeters grouped together by crossovers.
My suggestion yesterday was for you to consider a 3-way component set up front. The Focal 165 KRX3.
You could run this type of setup with just the Audison Voce AV5.1k amplifier if you wanted. Or you could do a 2 amp setup like I am planning. If you go with just the 1 amp, this is how it would look in the BitOne.
Tweeter + Midrange (passive crossover)
Woofer + subwoofer (active crossover)
You will notice there are 3 channels left available in the BitOne in the above picture. This means you could still add a set of rear speakers if they are passively crossed over. Here is how that would look:
You would need another 2 channels of amplification in this scenario, but you would get your 3-way speakers in front plus rear fill and a subwoofer.
I would suggest the Voce Av5.1k be used as follows:
2 x 75 Watts (front tweet + mid)
2 x 140 Watts (rear fill)
mono channel to the subwoofer
Then you could add the Voce AV Due like I plan to run.
That would run the front woofers 2 x 260 Watts.
Last edited by subterFUSE; 09-20-2013 at 01:02 PM.
09-20-2013, 03:57 PM
#35
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Lake Mary FL
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, I have never listened to Focals. Ultimate Auto, the shop I use, just started carrying Focal a couple of months ago. Audison/Hertz has decided to discontinue the Mille series speakers. Those are the speakers which I currently own. Ultimate Auto had to find another speaker to fill that void, so they picked up Focal. By all reports they are excellent speakers, but I have no first-hand experience.
As for your question about which speakers to choose, that is going to depend on your goals, system design and budget.
Our Audi C7s have good speaker locations to work with. BMW OEM speaker locations are terrible, and almost always require cutting the door panels to install aftermarket drivers. But our Audis have nice 3-way speaker setups in front, and should require no major changes to the factory look.
To select the right speakers it will be a good idea to answer a few questions:
Do you want a 3-way speaker system? Or 2-way?
How much power do you want to drive them?
Do you want to use a passive crossover, or active?
Do you want rear fill speakers?
Personally, I am going to do 3-way active components in front and no rear fill. Just the subwoofer in the trunk.
As for your question about which speakers to choose, that is going to depend on your goals, system design and budget.
Our Audi C7s have good speaker locations to work with. BMW OEM speaker locations are terrible, and almost always require cutting the door panels to install aftermarket drivers. But our Audis have nice 3-way speaker setups in front, and should require no major changes to the factory look.
To select the right speakers it will be a good idea to answer a few questions:
Do you want a 3-way speaker system? Or 2-way?
How much power do you want to drive them?
Do you want to use a passive crossover, or active?
Do you want rear fill speakers?
Personally, I am going to do 3-way active components in front and no rear fill. Just the subwoofer in the trunk.
I had ultimate auto do the wheels on my a7 and tint the front windshiled--those guys are quality!
I think in the s6, im just going to swap the infinite baffle sub and drive it with an amp.
09-20-2013, 04:06 PM
#36
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Lake Mary FL
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm subscribed, want to see how this turns out --I didnt read it all, but be careful with power draw--audi is an electronic masterpiece, and any power drains could create issues for other systems. That said, class D is more efficient than class a/b -but when you start stacking class D's and other electronics the amperage adds up.
I'm sure you've been, but ask some of your questions on diymobile as well--extremely knowledgable people there too (subterfuse seems to know his **** though).
I'm going in search of good open baffle subs
--I didnt read it all, but be careful with power draw--audi is an electronic masterpiece, and any power drains could create issues for other systems. That said, class D is more efficient than class a/b -but when you start stacking class D's and other electronics the amperage adds up.I'm sure you've been, but ask some of your questions on diymobile as well--extremely knowledgable people there too (subterfuse seems to know his **** though).
I'm going in search of good open baffle subs
09-21-2013, 03:36 AM
#37
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, power draw is always a concern. That's one good reason to try and stick with a single amp like the AV5.1k to run an entire system. Only downside for me in that scenario is that I would have to use a passive crossover on some of the front speakers. I really like the control and clarity of the BitOne active crossover.
Did you have any power issues with your A7?
Did you connect the BitOne to the Bose amp? Or did you do a MoBridge?
Did your bluetooth work? Voice recognition?
Did your parking beeps still work?
My previous car, BMW 545i, was actually the first car I ever owned that never had any issues with lights dimming or batteries getting drained. It was also the first car I owned with the battery in the back instead of the front. I think that has a lot to do with it. Sorter power cable runs = better.
I was running the Audison Voce AV5.1k + an Audison LRx4.5 amp in that car and had the subwoofer output playing at 2 ohms for 1000 Watt output. I am fairly confident I could run the AV5.1k and an AV Due amp together without problems, especially when we consider that my gains will be turned way down and the subwoofer will be playing at 3 ohms instead of 4.
Max current draw for the AV5.1k is listed in tech specs as 110 Amps @ 14.4 Volts. Real world performance would be less than that.
The BMW alternator was rated at 180 Amps, I think. The alternator in my S6 is considerably more amperage than that I have heard. Well over 200 Amps.
We did not use any extra batteries or capacitors in the BMW.
Did you have any power issues with your A7?
Did you connect the BitOne to the Bose amp? Or did you do a MoBridge?
Did your bluetooth work? Voice recognition?
Did your parking beeps still work?
My previous car, BMW 545i, was actually the first car I ever owned that never had any issues with lights dimming or batteries getting drained. It was also the first car I owned with the battery in the back instead of the front. I think that has a lot to do with it. Sorter power cable runs = better.
I was running the Audison Voce AV5.1k + an Audison LRx4.5 amp in that car and had the subwoofer output playing at 2 ohms for 1000 Watt output. I am fairly confident I could run the AV5.1k and an AV Due amp together without problems, especially when we consider that my gains will be turned way down and the subwoofer will be playing at 3 ohms instead of 4.
Max current draw for the AV5.1k is listed in tech specs as 110 Amps @ 14.4 Volts. Real world performance would be less than that.
The BMW alternator was rated at 180 Amps, I think. The alternator in my S6 is considerably more amperage than that I have heard. Well over 200 Amps.
We did not use any extra batteries or capacitors in the BMW.
09-21-2013, 03:52 AM
#38
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Lake Mary FL
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, power draw is always a concern. That's one good reason to try and stick with a single amp like the AV5.1k to run an entire system. Only downside for me in that scenario is that I would have to use a passive crossover on some of the front speakers. I really like the control and clarity of the BitOne active crossover.
Did you have any power issues with your A7?
Did you connect the BitOne to the Bose amp? Or did you do a MoBridge?
Did your bluetooth work? Voice recognition?
Did your parking beeps still work?
My previous car, BMW 545i, was actually the first car I ever owned that never had any issues with lights dimming or batteries getting drained. It was also the first car I owned with the battery in the back instead of the front. I think that has a lot to do with it. Sorter power cable runs = better.
I was running the Audison Voce AV5.1k + an Audison LRx4.5 amp in that car and had the subwoofer output playing at 2 ohms for 1000 Watt output. I am fairly confident I could run the AV5.1k and an AV Due amp together without problems, especially when we consider that my gains will be turned way down and the subwoofer will be playing at 3 ohms instead of 4.
Max current draw for the AV5.1k is listed in tech specs as 110 Amps @ 14.4 Volts. Real world performance would be less than that.
The BMW alternator was rated at 180 Amps, I think. The alternator in my S6 is considerably more amperage than that I have heard. Well over 200 Amps.
We did not use any extra batteries or capacitors in the BMW.
Did you have any power issues with your A7?
Did you connect the BitOne to the Bose amp? Or did you do a MoBridge?
Did your bluetooth work? Voice recognition?
Did your parking beeps still work?
My previous car, BMW 545i, was actually the first car I ever owned that never had any issues with lights dimming or batteries getting drained. It was also the first car I owned with the battery in the back instead of the front. I think that has a lot to do with it. Sorter power cable runs = better.
I was running the Audison Voce AV5.1k + an Audison LRx4.5 amp in that car and had the subwoofer output playing at 2 ohms for 1000 Watt output. I am fairly confident I could run the AV5.1k and an AV Due amp together without problems, especially when we consider that my gains will be turned way down and the subwoofer will be playing at 3 ohms instead of 4.
Max current draw for the AV5.1k is listed in tech specs as 110 Amps @ 14.4 Volts. Real world performance would be less than that.
The BMW alternator was rated at 180 Amps, I think. The alternator in my S6 is considerably more amperage than that I have heard. Well over 200 Amps.
We did not use any extra batteries or capacitors in the BMW.
I will say that with the emails I exchanged with mobridge they said they couldn't be certain any of their products would work with the current generation of MMI that's in our cars. At best they were inconclusive. So I hope one of you guys has tested and confirms it does. Otherwise, I would have just used high level outputs from the bose amp.
I had just connected the sub to the actual sub output on the bose amp, to the LOC (verified voltage there - i dont have an oscilloscope) and then into the audison.. I was driving a hertz mille 12 in a sealed box. It sounded good enough that I never really had the motivation to do the rest lol (until they updated my a7 to software revision 715_2--then it sounded like hot ***).
I had purchased enough amps to drive everything separately if I really wanted. But ended up deciding to just use passive on the mid-high on both sets of 3-way components. I REALLY wanted to hear the hertz mille 3-ways though... if they sound as good as they look --or anywhere near how good the 12" mille sub sounds...
Today I'm off to get the windows tinted in my car and explore the option for 3m clear protection on the front half of the car. I loathe love bugs.
09-21-2013, 04:17 AM
#39
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
That pretty much confirms the mixed reports I have heard from MoBridge about our MMI3G. I think I know what the issue is. There are 3 microphones for the MMI bluetooth and voice recognition. The are all located in the dome light area above the rearview mirror. 2 of those mics connect to the Information Control Module, or whatever it's called. One of the mics connects directly to the Bose amplifier. The issue must be related to that one microphone getting bypassed since the MoBridge would intercept the audio signal upstream from the Bose amp.
In all likelihood we will just connect the BitOne to the Bose amp and call it a day. I have already mapped out the Bose amp wires that will be needed. We get 8 input channels on the BitOne, and there are 12 outputs on the Bose.
Bose Outputs Available
Front Left Tweeter
Front Right Twweter
Front Left Midrange
Front Right Midrange
Front left Woofer
Front Right Woofer
Rear Left Door
Rear Right Door
Rear Left Surround (aka deck shelf)
Rear Right Surround
Center Channel
Subwoofer
Since we only get to choose 8 of those Bose outputs, I decided the best logical choice would be to use the following to feed the BitOne:
1. Front L Tweet
2. Front R Tweet
3. Front L Mid
4. Front R Mid
5. Front L Woofer
6. Front R Woofer
7. Center
8. Subwoofer
That's interesting that a software update messed with your subwoofer sound. Did you run the BitOne setup CD again after they did that update? Maybe the BitOne input level setup got wacked out, or maybe the factory Equalization was changed?
In all likelihood we will just connect the BitOne to the Bose amp and call it a day. I have already mapped out the Bose amp wires that will be needed. We get 8 input channels on the BitOne, and there are 12 outputs on the Bose.
Bose Outputs Available
Front Left Tweeter
Front Right Twweter
Front Left Midrange
Front Right Midrange
Front left Woofer
Front Right Woofer
Rear Left Door
Rear Right Door
Rear Left Surround (aka deck shelf)
Rear Right Surround
Center Channel
Subwoofer
Since we only get to choose 8 of those Bose outputs, I decided the best logical choice would be to use the following to feed the BitOne:
1. Front L Tweet
2. Front R Tweet
3. Front L Mid
4. Front R Mid
5. Front L Woofer
6. Front R Woofer
7. Center
8. Subwoofer
That's interesting that a software update messed with your subwoofer sound. Did you run the BitOne setup CD again after they did that update? Maybe the BitOne input level setup got wacked out, or maybe the factory Equalization was changed?
09-21-2013, 04:27 AM
#40
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Lake Mary FL
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never installed the bitone - it was the entire sound that was messed with after the update. The Bose DSP was completely hosed by the update. The sound focus, audiopilot, and surround were no longer working (i.e. selection of any of them or settings on them did not change the sound [at all]) --the fader and balance control changed the tone significantly and wouldn't actually focus the sound forward or back. It actually moved the sound in different areas of the car, but the front tweeters and midrange were never really used--just the center and mids in the doors. Really quite odd. This is the point where I traded it in for the 2013 S6 (new) --software update was at 609 --got my sound back. Now I'm exploring what to do with the sub.
I have quite a few 8" subs, and 3 different 12" subs--but no 10's and I don't want to cut a lot of sheet metal out of the trunk lid if I just replace the IB sub that's in there. I also don't want to re-fiberglass a box. I really hate the process lol.
So, just to be clear--I never installed my bitone or any other amp, other than the audison lrx5.1 - all my crap is in the house in boxes (my wife will attest to that --she loves it).
--got my sound back. Now I'm exploring what to do with the sub.I have quite a few 8" subs, and 3 different 12" subs--but no 10's and I don't want to cut a lot of sheet metal out of the trunk lid if I just replace the IB sub that's in there. I also don't want to re-fiberglass a box. I really hate the process lol.
So, just to be clear--I never installed my bitone or any other amp, other than the audison lrx5.1
- all my crap is in the house in boxes (my wife will attest to that --she loves it).