A7/S7/RS7 Trunk Motor Replacement
#1
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Hey everyone! I recently had a failed trunk motor, so I thought I'd share my experience to make it easier for everyone!
My failed motor started intermittently– sometimes the trunk would not fully go all the way up, or all the way down. But it eventually got worse to the point where the trunk would not go up nor down without my help.
It started with the following errors:
It turns out that motor 2 is the motor on the right side of the car (the passenger side in the US). This more than likely means motor 1 is the left side.
Audi wanted $1200 for a new motor, so I bought a used one on ebay for ~$150. I made sure to get one with the same letter revision, just to make sure it's the same software version and everything. There's a chance you can get a newer one, but I'm not sure.
The motor was really quite easy to replace. I got a buddy to hold up the hatch while doing the bolts. By the way, the torque spec for the two bolts connecting the motor to the hatch is 21nm.
Also, you can re-learn the open/shut positions with the following vcds instructions:
Hope this helped someone!
My failed motor started intermittently– sometimes the trunk would not fully go all the way up, or all the way down. But it eventually got worse to the point where the trunk would not go up nor down without my help.
It started with the following errors:
Address 6D: Trunk Elect. (----) Labels:* Redir Fail!
2 Faults Found:
0020 - Hall Sensors in Motor 2 for Rear Lid
B120A 02 [008] - Signal Failure
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 86
Mileage: 139355 km
Date: 2021.12.15
Time: 12:37:55
Voltage terminal 30: 12.46 V
0030 - Motor 2 for Rear Lid
B11DA 13 [008] - Open Circuit
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 86
Mileage: 139340 km
Date: 2021.12.15
Time: 12:07:22
Voltage terminal 30: 12.36 V
2 Faults Found:
0020 - Hall Sensors in Motor 2 for Rear Lid
B120A 02 [008] - Signal Failure
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 86
Mileage: 139355 km
Date: 2021.12.15
Time: 12:37:55
Voltage terminal 30: 12.46 V
0030 - Motor 2 for Rear Lid
B11DA 13 [008] - Open Circuit
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 86
Mileage: 139340 km
Date: 2021.12.15
Time: 12:07:22
Voltage terminal 30: 12.36 V
Audi wanted $1200 for a new motor, so I bought a used one on ebay for ~$150. I made sure to get one with the same letter revision, just to make sure it's the same software version and everything. There's a chance you can get a newer one, but I'm not sure.
The motor was really quite easy to replace. I got a buddy to hold up the hatch while doing the bolts. By the way, the torque spec for the two bolts connecting the motor to the hatch is 21nm.
Also, you can re-learn the open/shut positions with the following vcds instructions:
Rear Lid relearn
Prerequisites:
[Select]
[6D-Trunk Elect.]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Select Adapt flap opening angle from the drop-down menu.
[Go!]
The rear lid Basic Settings will now begin
If the the rear lid begins to open let it continue.
If the read lid does NOT begin to open, operate the switch on the Driver's door -or- the switch on the outside of the lid.
"Unknown" may be shown on-screen during the procedure.
When the rear lid has stopped opening, close the rear lid using Driver's door switch -or- the E406 switch on the inside lid trim.
Finished Correctly should be displayed after the procedure completes.
[Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
Check for fault codes, clear if needed.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Check for proper operation
Re-check for faults
Prerequisites:
- Rear Lid closed
- Transport mode NOT active
- No rear lid obstructions or damage to the vehicle
- Park assist functions correctly, no errors (If equipped)
- DTC B2010 - No Basic Setting stored
- Battery voltage at least 12.0V
- Vehicle is on a flat level surface
[Select]
[6D-Trunk Elect.]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Select Adapt flap opening angle from the drop-down menu.
[Go!]
The rear lid Basic Settings will now begin
If the the rear lid begins to open let it continue.
If the read lid does NOT begin to open, operate the switch on the Driver's door -or- the switch on the outside of the lid.
"Unknown" may be shown on-screen during the procedure.
When the rear lid has stopped opening, close the rear lid using Driver's door switch -or- the E406 switch on the inside lid trim.
Finished Correctly should be displayed after the procedure completes.
[Stop]
[Done, Go Back]
Check for fault codes, clear if needed.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Check for proper operation
Re-check for faults
Last edited by woodepic; 02-06-2022 at 02:05 PM.
The following users liked this post:
whudson90 (07-06-2023)
#2
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woodepic, thanks for the write up it is super helpful! When you put your new motor in was it responsive at all before you performed the adaptation? I think I need to do exactly what you described but don't have the software yet and wanted to confirm my new motors were good before I move forward. I've tried plugging in my two new motors (bought off eBay from the same year Q5 as mine) and the car doesn't appear to recognize them at all.
#4
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Where exactly is the engine located? you just have to dismantle the right trim? I have the same faults as you. I hope you can help me. thank you very much
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