When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been struggling to remove the upper control arm pinch bolt for a week and want to see if anyone has tried the following before I give it a shot. I removed the bolt head and have been unsuccessful with penetrating oil, hammering with a drift pin and 2lb sledge, air hammer with a drift pin, and double nuts on the back side to rotate the threaded end counter clockwise. I can get a 2-jaw puller on the knuckle but before I crank on it, I want to make sure it won't damage the aluminum knuckle. I did consider inserting washers into the knuckle slits to minimize movement and focus the tension onto the bolt.
Any penetrating oil? PRB blaster is probably the best choice and it should be allowed to soak at least overnight. If you are committed to replacing the ball joints/control arms anyway then heat can be liberally applied.
PB Blaster at least once per day for a week before starting the repair, no help. I've hit the knuckle with a torch as well before cutting the bolt head off.
Actually if the threaded end is still intact then perhaps you could just use a nut as a puller, that's providing the bolt doesn't have a shoulder on it. If you're replacing the control arms then you could cut those off close to the wishbone to make it more manageable as you take it to a press.
I had the exact same issue, I was 100% sure it would be done with air hammer combined with 1 week of penetrating fluid, but noooo, wouldnt budge. I bought a MAP torch, and after that it popped right out with the air hammer, and I regret not just doing that straight away. I did soak some old rags in water and tightened it around the rubber to protect that during the heating, worked like a charm. You mentioned you tried with torch? If it was butan/propan it wouldnt help that much compared to MAP or oxy/ace torch. I would recommend grab a torch and be done with the headache. PS: if you are gonna try the jaw, make sure you fill the gaps in the knuckle with washers or something, otherwise you might damage it by overtightening and basicly tightening them as u try to push the bolt out, making for double trouble.
I've been struggling to remove the upper control arm pinch bolt for a week and want to see if anyone has tried the following before I give it a shot. I removed the bolt head and have been unsuccessful with penetrating oil, hammering with a drift pin and 2lb sledge, air hammer with a drift pin, and double nuts on the back side to rotate the threaded end counter clockwise. I can get a 2-jaw puller on the knuckle but before I crank on it, I want to make sure it won't damage the aluminum knuckle. I did consider inserting washers into the knuckle slits to minimize movement and focus the tension onto the bolt.
Has anyone tried this?
My mechanics simply drilled out the remains of the bolt. It is not "simple" but with enough persevirance and a couple of spare drillbits it can be done.
Other idea would be to break off the bolt head and tighten the nut so it pulls of the bolt shuft.
I also saw one youtube video with a guy using a airhammer to hummer it out. but everything looks easy on youtube.
The airhummer can be had for $25 from harbor freight.
I had the exact same issue, I was 100% sure it would be done with air hammer combined with 1 week of penetrating fluid, but noooo, wouldnt budge. I bought a MAP torch, and after that it popped right out with the air hammer, and I regret not just doing that straight away. I did soak some old rags in water and tightened it around the rubber to protect that during the heating, worked like a charm. You mentioned you tried with torch? If it was butan/propan it wouldnt help that much compared to MAP or oxy/ace torch. I would recommend grab a torch and be done with the headache. PS: if you are gonna try the jaw, make sure you fill the gaps in the knuckle with washers or something, otherwise you might damage it by overtightening and basicly tightening them as u try to push the bolt out, making for double trouble.
The puller would not stay on because the back side of the knuckle interfered with the puller arm and it wouldn't stay lined up while tightening.
I did use propane which I know is not as hot as MAP. Picked up a MAP canister today and will give it a try with an air hammer and drift pin. I'll report back afterwards.
Its an awesome tool indeed, problem is it costs a fortune and its usage is restricted by the generation. Chances are you will only need the tool once, ever. Thats why I ended up with the MAP, alot cheaper and has alooot of handy usage.
Where are you applying the heat? I'm hitting the knuckle with the MAP torch and jamming on the bolt end with an air hammer and drift pin but it's not budging.
02-15-2022, 06:28 AM
Pinch Bolt removal w/2 jaw puller
