Decided to sell my 2016 A6.
#1
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I decided to replace my 16 Audi A6 3.0 which has 30,500 miles. While it has been a great driving car, the reliability has been quite poor. Car is on it's 3rd water pump (first one replaced under warranty). Second one on my dime which was about $1800 (including crossover pipe). Also just replaced a parking brake control module. $1600.
Unacceptable for me. Time to get out.
Still, it didn't stop me from looking at the Q4. I felt going EV was more prudent for me at this time.
I actually placed a deposit today on a BMW I4 M50. 536 HP, 586lbs torque with 271 miles range.
It will be a wait and it's a guess how much longer I will be with the A6 or what I'll actually end up with.
Unacceptable for me. Time to get out.
Still, it didn't stop me from looking at the Q4. I felt going EV was more prudent for me at this time.
I actually placed a deposit today on a BMW I4 M50. 536 HP, 586lbs torque with 271 miles range.
It will be a wait and it's a guess how much longer I will be with the A6 or what I'll actually end up with.
Last edited by dudley@07726; 08-17-2022 at 11:11 AM.
#2
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I decided to replace my 16 Audi A6 3.0 which has 30,500 miles. While it has been a great driving car, the reliability has been quite poor. Car is on it's 3rd water pump (first one replaced under warranty). Second one on my dime which was about $1800 (including crossover pipe). Also just replaced a parking brake control module. $1600.
Unacceptable for me. Time to get out.
Still, it didn't stop me from looking at the Q4. I felt going EV was more prudent for me at this time.
I actually placed a deposit today on a BMW I4 M50. 536 HP, 586lbs torque with 271 miles range.
It will be a wait and it's a guess how much longer I will be with the A6 or what I'll actually end up with.
Unacceptable for me. Time to get out.
Still, it didn't stop me from looking at the Q4. I felt going EV was more prudent for me at this time.
I actually placed a deposit today on a BMW I4 M50. 536 HP, 586lbs torque with 271 miles range.
It will be a wait and it's a guess how much longer I will be with the A6 or what I'll actually end up with.
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PofC (09-02-2022)
#3
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Should be. I purchased this brand new from Coral Springs Audi in Aug 2016.
#4
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Dudley, sorry to hear it hasn't been the best experience. I guess one just has to be lucky. My C7 adventure started off rocky with one of the wheels' center bore being out of round (took selling dealer months to figure that out and ultimately I was the catalyst for the solution as I told them to swap wheels with another car on the lot and presto, no more wobble - that was the end of my relationship with the selling dealer -- service was awful), brake rotors (front and rear) all warped before 10K miles, fuel door release decided not to release, upper timing chain tensioners replaced with upgraded parts (all of the foregoing under warranty), and after warranty was up, a couple wheel bearings and left front brake caliper were replaced. Only out of pocket expenses were the wheel bearings and the brake caliper which I didn't get too excited about since the major stuff that went wrong was all covered under warranty. Since the upper timing chain tensioners at 27K miles, aside from the wheel bearings and the caliper, I've thankfully had no issues.
I also run a 2004 Acura TL with 197,000 miles that I use as my commute-buggy that interestingly has not required any engine work, transmission work or wheel bearings, LOL. It has gone through a couple of sets of rear calipers however (note to self -- write Acura a nasty letter -- LOL). I've come to terms with the fact that the newer cars are so much more complex than the old ones. Honda/Toyota from the 90s and 00s generally very simple and thus reliable.
My A6 has 72K miles and I'll keep it for another few years but don't want to be around for major fun and games north of 100/110K miles. Good luck with the replacement vehicle.
Best,
Jeff
I also run a 2004 Acura TL with 197,000 miles that I use as my commute-buggy that interestingly has not required any engine work, transmission work or wheel bearings, LOL. It has gone through a couple of sets of rear calipers however (note to self -- write Acura a nasty letter -- LOL). I've come to terms with the fact that the newer cars are so much more complex than the old ones. Honda/Toyota from the 90s and 00s generally very simple and thus reliable.
My A6 has 72K miles and I'll keep it for another few years but don't want to be around for major fun and games north of 100/110K miles. Good luck with the replacement vehicle.
Best,
Jeff
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PofC (09-02-2022)
#5
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My old C7 was pretty rock solid until she reached 110k miles. Then she became quite needy between 110-130k miles. I am sorry you didn’t have the same experience.
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PofC (09-02-2022)
#6
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Dudley, sorry to hear it hasn't been the best experience. I guess one just has to be lucky. My C7 adventure started off rocky with one of the wheels' center bore being out of round (took selling dealer months to figure that out and ultimately I was the catalyst for the solution as I told them to swap wheels with another car on the lot and presto, no more wobble - that was the end of my relationship with the selling dealer -- service was awful), brake rotors (front and rear) all warped before 10K miles, fuel door release decided not to release, upper timing chain tensioners replaced with upgraded parts (all of the foregoing under warranty), and after warranty was up, a couple wheel bearings and left front brake caliper were replaced. Only out of pocket expenses were the wheel bearings and the brake caliper which I didn't get too excited about since the major stuff that went wrong was all covered under warranty. Since the upper timing chain tensioners at 27K miles, aside from the wheel bearings and the caliper, I've thankfully had no issues.
I also run a 2004 Acura TL with 197,000 miles that I use as my commute-buggy that interestingly has not required any engine work, transmission work or wheel bearings, LOL. It has gone through a couple of sets of rear calipers however (note to self -- write Acura a nasty letter -- LOL). I've come to terms with the fact that the newer cars are so much more complex than the old ones. Honda/Toyota from the 90s and 00s generally very simple and thus reliable.
My A6 has 72K miles and I'll keep it for another few years but don't want to be around for major fun and games north of 100/110K miles. Good luck with the replacement vehicle.
Best,
Jeff
I also run a 2004 Acura TL with 197,000 miles that I use as my commute-buggy that interestingly has not required any engine work, transmission work or wheel bearings, LOL. It has gone through a couple of sets of rear calipers however (note to self -- write Acura a nasty letter -- LOL). I've come to terms with the fact that the newer cars are so much more complex than the old ones. Honda/Toyota from the 90s and 00s generally very simple and thus reliable.
My A6 has 72K miles and I'll keep it for another few years but don't want to be around for major fun and games north of 100/110K miles. Good luck with the replacement vehicle.
Best,
Jeff
#7
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I am pretty tight with the lead tech at the Audi dealer I have been using for service the last 7 years. He said that I should expect water pump/thermostat north of 90K miles, the coolant crossover pipe under the supercharger, possibly coil packs, possibly need for carbon cleaning (but said he does see quite a few C7 V6 cars that don't have issues in this regard until well north of 100K miles, good chance the an engine mount or two may need attention, exhaust system flex pipes are a common failure point, possible lower control arms, replacement battery are those that come immediately to mind. He also said very good idea to replace trans fluid between 60 and 70K miles.
Some of the items above I view as a species of preventative maintenance especially the cooling system related items and of course the trans fluid replacement and even the coil packs. I'm sure that there are a few other items such as belts/hoses, etc. that will need attention. I can live with all of that. However, if one has to layer on top of the foregoing a carbon cleaning, lower control arms, engine mounts and perhaps some other suspension pieces and one or two additional items I can see things getting expensive fast. This is where I start to debate with myself about whether to hold onto car long term or bail out between 90 and 95K miles assuming I have been able to avoid any major expenditures up until then. Assuming one has to do all the things I've listed above my guess is cost will be approximately 4-5K even if done with indy and parts sourced at a discount from a vendor such as FCP Euro. Once you are in it for 4-5K chances are if repairs are thereafter needed that cost a few thousand, you are going to do them, having just invested 4-5K -- and so the slippery slope starts........
Best,
Jeff
Some of the items above I view as a species of preventative maintenance especially the cooling system related items and of course the trans fluid replacement and even the coil packs. I'm sure that there are a few other items such as belts/hoses, etc. that will need attention. I can live with all of that. However, if one has to layer on top of the foregoing a carbon cleaning, lower control arms, engine mounts and perhaps some other suspension pieces and one or two additional items I can see things getting expensive fast. This is where I start to debate with myself about whether to hold onto car long term or bail out between 90 and 95K miles assuming I have been able to avoid any major expenditures up until then. Assuming one has to do all the things I've listed above my guess is cost will be approximately 4-5K even if done with indy and parts sourced at a discount from a vendor such as FCP Euro. Once you are in it for 4-5K chances are if repairs are thereafter needed that cost a few thousand, you are going to do them, having just invested 4-5K -- and so the slippery slope starts........
Best,
Jeff
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PofC (09-02-2022)
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#8
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I am pretty tight with the lead tech at the Audi dealer I have been using for service the last 7 years. He said that I should expect water pump/thermostat north of 90K miles, the coolant crossover pipe under the supercharger, possibly coil packs, possibly need for carbon cleaning (but said he does see quite a few C7 V6 cars that don't have issues in this regard until well north of 100K miles, good chance the an engine mount or two may need attention, exhaust system flex pipes are a common failure point, possible lower control arms, replacement battery are those that come immediately to mind. He also said very good idea to replace trans fluid between 60 and 70K miles.
Some of the items above I view as a species of preventative maintenance especially the cooling system related items and of course the trans fluid replacement and even the coil packs. I'm sure that there are a few other items such as belts/hoses, etc. that will need attention. I can live with all of that. However, if one has to layer on top of the foregoing a carbon cleaning, lower control arms, engine mounts and perhaps some other suspension pieces and one or two additional items I can see things getting expensive fast. This is where I start to debate with myself about whether to hold onto car long term or bail out between 90 and 95K miles assuming I have been able to avoid any major expenditures up until then. Assuming one has to do all the things I've listed above my guess is cost will be approximately 4-5K even if done with indy and parts sourced at a discount from a vendor such as FCP Euro. Once you are in it for 4-5K chances are if repairs are thereafter needed that cost a few thousand, you are going to do them, having just invested 4-5K -- and so the slippery slope starts........
Best,
Jeff
Some of the items above I view as a species of preventative maintenance especially the cooling system related items and of course the trans fluid replacement and even the coil packs. I'm sure that there are a few other items such as belts/hoses, etc. that will need attention. I can live with all of that. However, if one has to layer on top of the foregoing a carbon cleaning, lower control arms, engine mounts and perhaps some other suspension pieces and one or two additional items I can see things getting expensive fast. This is where I start to debate with myself about whether to hold onto car long term or bail out between 90 and 95K miles assuming I have been able to avoid any major expenditures up until then. Assuming one has to do all the things I've listed above my guess is cost will be approximately 4-5K even if done with indy and parts sourced at a discount from a vendor such as FCP Euro. Once you are in it for 4-5K chances are if repairs are thereafter needed that cost a few thousand, you are going to do them, having just invested 4-5K -- and so the slippery slope starts........
Best,
Jeff
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PofC (09-02-2022)
#9
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I agree with you Jeff. Good points to look at when I'm at 100K (currently at 83K and just replace the motor mounts). I would do as suggested above. I do most things my self if possible. I also look for good quality parts not from dealers and buy it (like my motor mounts I found them on ebay for a litle under 200 for both and they are OEM parts with 3 years warranty) and pay the Audi mechanic $580 to install who also warranty his install for 3 years (dealer wanted 2K!). So if you shop around and do a little research and use this forum for advise you should be saving money and enjoy your car for years to come.
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Like most folks responding, I've had no issues with my 16, but only have ~40K. Given your mileage, looks like a bad egg. I did want to weigh on the EV angle. My wife bought an e-tron, which we both liked a great deal. A bit porky on the handling, but otherwise the perfect in-town vehicle. We were offered $15K over what we paid for it, and gave it back to the dealer. Our next new car will be EV given the experience, but we're waiting for the demand signal to wane a bit. That said, everything I've read/watched points to the BMW as an even better product...have fun, good luck.