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I've been searching the internet for two days now trying to pinpoint an issue without having to spend three days throwing random parts at it.
A little BG of what happened prior to the issue.
Wife was going to the store, car fired up no problem.
After shopping for an hour she came out to the problem.
As the title states no crank, no start. Battery is 12.7 at both battery and jump posts. When attempting to start you can hear clicking under the hood and everything seems normal other than not starting. I have no dtc codes stored or pending but do have check engine and EPC as usual in auxiliary mode. Thinking it's the starter but would like some opinions before I dive into the job.
I would hate to spend all that time to find out that it is not the starter.
If it is the starter, is it safe to assume the 40 amp fuse in the trunk is the fuse to pull to remove any potential ground out/shock hazards while doing the job or should I just lift the negative off of the battery? Not interested in any potential ECU/Module damage or unnecessary electrical problems or hunting down the radio code.
Any and all advice is welcomed and appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Why do you think the 40A in the right rear is related to the starter? Documentation is always a good place to start. Obviously, you'd disconnect the battery negative before working on any charging/starting system aspects.
First thing you should do is confirm term 50 is activating. This is the 12v from the starter relays that activate the starter. Next to the TV22 block (with the positive jump start post) in the center of the plenum chamber is a 5-pin plug. Disconnect that and test the voltage on the larger line on the half of the plug that comes from the ECM box (from the left side of the vehicle). It should go 12v when you're trying to start the engine. If it's not, then the starter relays are not passing the 12v along as they should. This might be your clicking issue. The starter relays are the pair of 404 (later 694) relays in the ECM box.
If you have 12v across the jump start posts, and you have 12v showing up on the term 50 line, then the starter would seem to have what it needs to work, if it's working. But you should also manually rotate the engine (always only clockwise for the EA888) to make sure the engine is not jammed. You'll need a 24mm to turn the crank by the vibration damper bolt.
Why do you think the 40A in the right rear is related to the starter? Documentation is always a good place to start. Obviously, you'd disconnect the battery negative before working on any charging/starting system aspects.
First thing you should do is confirm term 50 is activating. This is the 12v from the starter relays that activate the starter. Next to the TV22 block (with the positive jump start post) in the center of the plenum chamber is a 5-pin plug. Disconnect that and test the voltage on the larger line on the half of the plug that comes from the ECM box (from the left side of the vehicle). It should go 12v when you're trying to start the engine. If it's not, then the starter relays are not passing the 12v along as they should. This might be your clicking issue. The starter relays are the pair of 404 (later 694) relays in the ECM box.
If you have 12v across the jump start posts, and you have 12v showing up on the term 50 line, then the starter would seem to have what it needs to work, if it's working. But you should also manually rotate the engine (always only clockwise for the EA888) to make sure the engine is not jammed. You'll need a 24mm to turn the crank by the vibration damper bolt.
This is what I have in the plenum and trunk no relays in the plenum area.
I have some documentation but what I have doesn't show what I'm looking for. I'm wondering if it's around the one plug behind the plastic. I'll have to find the relay and test it. I assumed the clicking was the relay coil pulling in. I appreciate you and I'll let you know what I find.
Why do you think the 40A in the right rear is related to the starter? Documentation is always a good place to start. Obviously, you'd disconnect the battery negative before working on any charging/starting system aspects.
First thing you should do is confirm term 50 is activating. This is the 12v from the starter relays that activate the starter. Next to the TV22 block (with the positive jump start post) in the center of the plenum chamber is a 5-pin plug. Disconnect that and test the voltage on the larger line on the half of the plug that comes from the ECM box (from the left side of the vehicle). It should go 12v when you're trying to start the engine. If it's not, then the starter relays are not passing the 12v along as they should. This might be your clicking issue. The starter relays are the pair of 404 (later 694) relays in the ECM box.
If you have 12v across the jump start posts, and you have 12v showing up on the term 50 line, then the starter would seem to have what it needs to work, if it's working. But you should also manually rotate the engine (always only clockwise for the EA888) to make sure the engine is not jammed. You'll need a 24mm to turn the crank by the vibration damper bolt.
I have 12 volts when attempting to start on the larger wire. So the relay is passing the 12 volts. I will attempt to turn the motor which I'm sure will turn. I have the cat free from the turbo flange already. So it's a start to a terrible job unfortunately. Thanks for the reply, hopefully you have better news with the info I have given you.
I will look at it. I know that I have 12 volts on the 5 pin connector 50 wire when attempting to start the vehicle.
I can hear it pulling in when trying to start the car. Nothing happens with the starter. I'll try swapping them to see what happens. Thanks.
This is the charging/starting system layout for the B8 4-cyl FSI. So battery connection is the very large cable on the left side, starter connection is large cable on the right side. You see both in your pic. There's no fuses in the path. B8.5 TV22 block is a little different because of the electromechanical power steering.
You're going to have to take that plenum chamber cover off to see the T5l plug. If you're just checking voltages inside the TV22 block, you're not checking term 50.
This is the charging/starting system layout for the B8 4-cyl FSI. So battery connection is the very large cable on the left side, starter connection is large cable on the right side. You see both in your pic. There's no fuses in the path. B8.5 TV22 block is a little different because of the electromechanical power steering.
You're going to have to take that plenum chamber cover off to see the T5l plug. If you're just checking voltages inside the TV22 block, you're not checking term 50.
I know 12 volts will always be there at TV22. I have separated the 5 pin connector signal from the relay to the solenoid on the starter and have 12 volts on it only when trying to start the vehicle. I have tried swapping the two relays under the ECM and washer fluid fill point. Still nothing. At this point in time I'm thinking the solenoid on the starter is bad. I put my amp clamp on the feed from TV22 to the starter and get no amp draw when trying to start the car. If the solenoid contact isn't closing there will be no amp draw and the starter won't work. So unless the solenoid is not on the starter unfortunately I'll be tearing it all down to the starter anyway. The cat to the flex pipe flange bolts are fighting me so I'll drop the entire exhaust and remove the mount and bracket to get to the starter. Unless you know an easier way. Thanks again.
05-29-2023, 04:34 AM
2014 A4 Premium No Crank No Start
