Is anyone using the Neuspeed P-Flo air intake or anything similar to it?
#1
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I remember someone from the board had one installed, was it HoTTub? also ran some plumbing from the drivers side lower grill to feed cold air to the intake, so I guess it has to be someone with a 180. I just wanted some input on the system, serious power increase? or was it just a waste of money? Any input would be nice, Thanks in advance!
#2
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I've a cone shape K&N fiter which just like the neuspeed p-flow. It makes noticable increase of power, the 3" exhaust more louder also the sound of the p-flow like a blow off valve. About the hot air problem, I'm living in Toronto, I don't have any problem in winter for sure. I like it very much!!
#3
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or did it only made it sound neat? I'm still deciding if I should give it a try replacing my K&N panel filter.
#4
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/4128/air_box_intake_overview.jpg"></center><p>even with the heat sheild the cone filter is located inside the engine bay...maybe I am thinking too simply...hot air is hot air and that is not good for turbo performance. Not debating that P-Flo is less restrictive than OEM airbox but got to get intake out of the engine bay. Now with that said take a look at pics...OEM airbox intake is located within wheel well behind driver side headlight assembly...tight area and in a 'air flow dead zone'...issue to me is getting an intake system with larger 'snorkel' and in the outside air flow (ram effect)
#6
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it is effective if it has a heat shield as well as some sort of fresh air source...My setup has both. I have a tube that comes from the lower grill and goes up to the filter as well as the heat sheild that came with it.
Also, just be cautious when re-oiling the filter element or you will run into problems with the MAF sensor
Also, just be cautious when re-oiling the filter element or you will run into problems with the MAF sensor
#7
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<img src="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1427287&a=11397143&p=40240039"
<img src="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1427287&a=11397143&p=40240042"
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#8
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Saw the prototype and it addresses a few of the P-flow problems. Similar in design but will utilize the stock airbox lid which should reduce hot-soak and direct more of the intake from the cold air duct (225). I did some experimenting with my last Miata and found that putting a "box" around the K&N with an opening toward the cold air duct reduced temps further than just running the K&N open. The lltek design is similar and should be quieter to boot. Neil says soon and possibly a group buy....<ul><li><a href="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=153811&a=1184756&f=0">Miata intake design I did last year</a></li></ul>
#9
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I would vouch for a drop in panel filter from ABT or K&N. The open element is nice looking but I would bet my money on the OEM factory air box with a better air filter. It'll breath much better and keep any engine heat from coming in. My friend just bought a AUDI TT 225 quattro. That car is so beautiful and his first mod was the drop in panel filter...thumbs up!
I hope this helps...let me know if you need anything, I can help! ![Wink](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Danny D.
Impact727@yahoo.com
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Danny D.
Impact727@yahoo.com
#10
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Here's some data from an article talking about heat soak reducing efficiency of the single IC KO3."With turbo outlet temperatures reaching a sultry 294[degrees]F at 4250 rpm and 310[degrees]F at 6000 rpm, I can't help but think something has gone unchecked. Punching in the new peak boost and temperature numbers into the compressor efficiency formula, I was disappointed to see that, at 4250 rpm, the little turbo was operating at an unacceptably low 65-percent compressor efficiency. And, at 6000 rpm, compressor efficiency dropped to an absolutely horrific 40 percent! Near redline, it was clear the extra heat introduced into the system by reduced compressor efficiency was negating much of the gains afforded by the higher boost pressures.
The net result was very little performance gain (91 vs. 66 wheel horsepower) and a uncomfortably large increase in thermal loads--much of which was likely to be the underlying cause of the detonation problem. Even the little intercooler suffered by being able to remove no more than 55 percent of the compression heat. For improved cooling, it may be necessary to increase the internal volume of the intercooler core which, all things equal, should result in improved heat exchange. But, with 300+[degrees]F compressor outlet temps, I may be asking a bit too much." So, my hypothesis concludes that those who chip even with the dual IC 225 TT may be creating a 'heat soaked' system which can't be compensated for with additional boost by adding a cone. The additional flow of entrained hot engine air may actually hurt performance and make a chipped car more prone to detonation and work the knock sensor to much. Cold Canada air may be the exception though.
The net result was very little performance gain (91 vs. 66 wheel horsepower) and a uncomfortably large increase in thermal loads--much of which was likely to be the underlying cause of the detonation problem. Even the little intercooler suffered by being able to remove no more than 55 percent of the compression heat. For improved cooling, it may be necessary to increase the internal volume of the intercooler core which, all things equal, should result in improved heat exchange. But, with 300+[degrees]F compressor outlet temps, I may be asking a bit too much." So, my hypothesis concludes that those who chip even with the dual IC 225 TT may be creating a 'heat soaked' system which can't be compensated for with additional boost by adding a cone. The additional flow of entrained hot engine air may actually hurt performance and make a chipped car more prone to detonation and work the knock sensor to much. Cold Canada air may be the exception though.
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