Arm Rest install hints.....
02-05-2001, 06:11 AM
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I'll see if I can track them down... The key is........
if the kit is the same as mine.. You'll need a 4mm allen socket in addition to the #25 torx bit.
The new (longer) mounting screws are allen not Torx.
The cup holder screws are accessed by pulling the rubber off the cup holder bottoms...
OH.. just remembered...When I removed the cup holder base, it had a harness attached to it. You can remove it with a stubby phillips screw driver. There are two small screws holding it on. I packed the [unused] phone harness back into the opening.. I used bubble wrap.. I guess anything would work. I just didn't want it to rattle around.
The new (longer) mounting screws are allen not Torx.
The cup holder screws are accessed by pulling the rubber off the cup holder bottoms...
OH.. just remembered...When I removed the cup holder base, it had a harness attached to it. You can remove it with a stubby phillips screw driver. There are two small screws holding it on. I packed the [unused] phone harness back into the opening.. I used bubble wrap.. I guess anything would work. I just didn't want it to rattle around.
02-05-2001, 07:08 AM
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Re: Arm Rest install hints.....
This is from memory, so apolgies if I forget something, but I did it just a
couple weeks ago, so I should be close.
First, have a whole pile of screwdrivers ready. You will need assorted lengths
and sizes of torx, allen, philips and flathead. Fun!
Gently pull up the rubber bottoms of the cupholders. They won't come all
the way off, but can be swiveled out of the way. Unscrew what you find there.
Pull up the cupholder/tunnel unit. The phone prewiring (I think that's what it
was) will be attached underneath, so you can only partly remove it. There are
two small screws holding it to the tunnel piece in your hand. Remove them.
Get the cupholder assembly out of the way. A black cover for the phone wiring
(located on the tunnel piece you just moved) may come loose. Store it before
you drop it and lose it.
Tape/bubble wrap/something the phone wiring back out of the way, so it
doesn't rattle later, and so it's not in your way now.
I think there are a couple screws that you need to remove. They're straight
down if I remember right. These will be replaced by the longer screws that
came with the armrest. Stick the armrest assembly in place, screw the new
screws in tight, and then snap the plastic tunnel piece that came with the
armrest into place.
This should only be a fifteen minute task if you have the right screwdrivers
on hand.
couple weeks ago, so I should be close.
First, have a whole pile of screwdrivers ready. You will need assorted lengths
and sizes of torx, allen, philips and flathead. Fun!
Gently pull up the rubber bottoms of the cupholders. They won't come all
the way off, but can be swiveled out of the way. Unscrew what you find there.
Pull up the cupholder/tunnel unit. The phone prewiring (I think that's what it
was) will be attached underneath, so you can only partly remove it. There are
two small screws holding it to the tunnel piece in your hand. Remove them.
Get the cupholder assembly out of the way. A black cover for the phone wiring
(located on the tunnel piece you just moved) may come loose. Store it before
you drop it and lose it.
Tape/bubble wrap/something the phone wiring back out of the way, so it
doesn't rattle later, and so it's not in your way now.
I think there are a couple screws that you need to remove. They're straight
down if I remember right. These will be replaced by the longer screws that
came with the armrest. Stick the armrest assembly in place, screw the new
screws in tight, and then snap the plastic tunnel piece that came with the
armrest into place.
This should only be a fifteen minute task if you have the right screwdrivers
on hand.
02-05-2001, 12:08 PM
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Re: Arm Rest install hints.....
I just installed my armrest on Saturday. Fairly straightforward as described. My long screws were Torx. I guess a small enough hex drive would work as well.
How did others cover the holes fore and aft of the trip piece that were left when the cupholder came out? I'm not completely satisfied with my solution, and am open to suggestions.
I used a set of subdued (metal, flat black) Captain's (Navy LT) rank and cut the little pieces connecting the bars together, so they sort of looked like Lt rank, except had a single pin centered on the back of each bar. Then I cut a little sliver from the end of a pencil eraser that plugged the screw hole perfectly, then stuck the pin from the rank thru the eraser. The bar covers the eraser and the two rivets on either side of the screw hole. The curvature doesn't match exactly, so like I said, I'm open to alternatives.
Those with non-black interiors could use the chrome rank and run some coarse steel wool over them to give a "stainless steel" effect.
Martin
How did others cover the holes fore and aft of the trip piece that were left when the cupholder came out? I'm not completely satisfied with my solution, and am open to suggestions.
I used a set of subdued (metal, flat black) Captain's (Navy LT) rank and cut the little pieces connecting the bars together, so they sort of looked like Lt rank, except had a single pin centered on the back of each bar. Then I cut a little sliver from the end of a pencil eraser that plugged the screw hole perfectly, then stuck the pin from the rank thru the eraser. The bar covers the eraser and the two rivets on either side of the screw hole. The curvature doesn't match exactly, so like I said, I'm open to alternatives.
Those with non-black interiors could use the chrome rank and run some coarse steel wool over them to give a "stainless steel" effect.
Martin
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