Rahl2323

Hello Guys, I Purchased the AWE boost gauge this weekend and installed it it work perfect! However the gauge has indicated what I was worried about... Inconstant boost. I have the Revo Chip and a k&N with drilled air box and brand new forge 008 Diverter valve... What is happening is in ALL gears my car will climb up into the correct boost range 1-3 15-17psi 4-6 20-21psi but after about 5500 rpm's the boost will start to fall off dramatically down to about 10psi. you can hear and feel when the turbo starts to die out. I was thinking it could be my Turbo inlet hose collapsing not sure. Would this be a boost leak? Any insight would be greatly useful!!!

Thank you,
Adam

Rahl2323

Anyone...? I find it hard to believe that no one has had a smiler issue....

EGRoadster

How old is your car? Sounds like the ECU is reducing the boost to protect the car. If your radiator is old, and your AC condenser is blocking airflow, you will eventually cause the CTS to signal the ECU that heat is building up too much, or too quickly. This can happen in one pull from 2k->6k.

If you crossed 80K miles, consider changing the AC condenser, and getting a good radiator. ECS has a 3 row radiator for the TT. Flush the cooling system while you are at it.

I noticed a significant difference in the car's general health after putting in a new radiator and condenser.

Rahl2323

Yes my car just hit 100,000 Miles So this could be the issue! I was also think maybe the N75 Valve... I Bought a new N75 and before replacing the Ac Condenser I am going to remove radiator and condenser and thoroughly clean them both.... If they are bad I will just buy new. I already have new coolant from the Stealership. Is the Radiator from ECS an upgraded one??

Thank you!

EGRoadster

Did you get a non-stock N75. The race versions tend to make tunes unhappy. Stick with stock if you can. You can clean the condenser and radiator, at 100k, I will replace them both.

The 3-row unit from ECS is an 'upgrade' using a stock part; early P version of the radiator. You may also spend some more and get the Mishimoto unit. If you get it, get 4x N90765301 seals so that the mishimoto radiator fits properly. The Mishimoto ports a a little wide, so you fit one seal in there to make sure the metal clips stays. The second seal goes in the usual place at the port.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/3-Ro...tor/ES2102240/
and
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Mishimoto/ES1892548/

Bang for buck, and ease of use, you cannot beat the 3-row.

Heat is the enemy in Turbo cars. If it works for you, you may want to consider an S4 heat exchanger upgrade.

Let us know how it goes.

Rahl2323

Fantastic, Thank you for are advise I am going to clean the condenser and replace the radiator with the 3-row! How ever I am EXTREMELY excited to announce that I have figured out my problem!!

So i realized after looking around long enough that the car's previous owner had reran the vacuum lines all under the intake manifold next to the block... honestly... for real...

Well longs story short I took a can of pineapple and modified it to put an air hose on it. well after making the seal air tight I put this can in the air intake and fed air with a compresses thought it wile clamping the hose and having the oil cap open. When I did this I almost fell on the ground!! All I heard was vacuum leaks yes with an S there are at least 4 leaks i found one after looking for quite sometime the size of my pinky...

What is funny is I had looked for vacuum leaks before with no luck. My insulation I have ordered HPS silicone hose to rerun the vacuum lines to put them back to the proper place. Found a great diagram that shows where everything goes and all sizes and length!! Not only should i benefit and feel the real performance my car should produce and its greatly increased fuel economy it will look fantastic as well! I went with the blue hosing and and got extra just in case!

I want to say thank you for the effort and ideas of what may have been wrong and i will still be doing this to reduce the heat!

EGRoadster

Funny, I am surprised you were able to hold boost of 21 PSI. Those leaks will let the air escape, and you will be running rich under boost. When idling, you are likely running lean. Too late now, but have a look in Block 32 using VAG-COM or similar too. This all important reading gives an indication of your general fueling health.

Pity about the vacuum lines. Some folks like the clean look; I am partial to stealth myself.

In the fight against heat you have these:
-Good radiator ( you should be OK here)
-FMIC (This actually reduces air intake heat, but arguably reduces water cooling performance).
-However, you will have a free spot where the passenger SMIC used to be, where you can put an oil cooler.
-The S4 oil/water heat exchanges is a good oil 'heating/cooling' upgrade. In combination with an oil cooler, you will have a car that heats up well, and should stay reasonably cool under load.

An oil cooler project takes some planning. I used a fan that turns on when the temp of the oil coming back from the cooler is over 190, the fan shuts off at 170.

All good fun...

Mike Dodd

Can you post a link to the vacuum line diagram and lengths, and source for the silicone vacuum line upgrade, I have the same problem.

Rahl2323

You bet sorry it took so long to get back to you! First off here are the photos of the 3 large leaks that I found... I want to say my AWE boost gauge was reading with the leaks around 2hg which I was told is normal so there was nothing alarming there. Until I did the pressure test I couldn't locate these leaks... Now my car holds boost at 20psi and sounds a lot different when my Turbo Spools! This is decent a project and was quite fun! I also now where every vacuum hose is located in my car!


As for the length of hoses & diargam here is the link for the Diagram photo to start you out. http://lz7w.com/albums/silhose/IMG_0053.jpg

I used this site for the hoses... http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/?gc...FSFgTAodujGvjw

For myself I ordered 10 Feet of 3.5mm, 5 feet of 6mm, & 5 feet of 8mm... This was just enough hose to run my vacuum lines the way I wanted... If you replace the PCV you will need an Elbow as well i would suggest getting at least 3 90 degree elbows! I also just installed my Forge TIP and it is fantastic!! Engine bay in my car is NOT complete yet!

I will take Final pictures Tomorrow and upload them!

Hope this Helps! Thank you!