Boost Machine... I'm so confused (long)
#1
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It probably just, me but after doing some searching I'm not sure what boost machine is advocated by most users. I'm looking to reduce spiking/surging. From what I understand I would be well off to install a pressure regulator between the compressor and the wastegate thus removing the N75 (but keeping it plugged in to fool the ECU).
In some threads I was confused as to whether the N75 was left in place (operational), but I believe that the ECU would then regulate the boost back to normal, defeating the purpose of the mod.
The other point I'm confused about is if the TT is chipped and the chip is controlling the N75, why is there a need to install a boost machine? Is the N75 just not capable of accurate regulation? I thought the purpose of the N75 was to give a closed loop system to the boost pressure.
andrew
In some threads I was confused as to whether the N75 was left in place (operational), but I believe that the ECU would then regulate the boost back to normal, defeating the purpose of the mod.
The other point I'm confused about is if the TT is chipped and the chip is controlling the N75, why is there a need to install a boost machine? Is the N75 just not capable of accurate regulation? I thought the purpose of the N75 was to give a closed loop system to the boost pressure.
andrew
#2
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Leave the N75 in the system and operational. The regulator controls the spikes that the N75 cannot, as well as vary the amount of boost signal sent to the wastegate for opening/closing. The N75 is just a dumb solenoid and our fast spooling turbo's build pressure before it can send (regulate) the signal to the wastegate and spill boost. That's where the spikes come from. A chip does not really change the N75 duty cycle that much. It starts out at 97-100% and gradually tapers to 70% or so passing more boost to the wastegate and therefore opening it. My duty cycle has always been about the same regardless of mods. The (my) boost machine allows you to regulate this air signal path, therefore allowing boost to be raised, but the same characteristics to be maintained for driveability and longevity. Go read all the autospeed links at my site, and look at the schematics and it will come to you I'm sure...<ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/">Boost machine page</a></li></ul>
#3
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I have the boost machine and it works great for my bucking boosht caused by my chip(custom). I think the problem is the reaction time of the N75 which sucks but works fine for stock. Works great inline with the N75. No more sudden spikes during around town drives. It rocks now!
#5
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But you can do just the simple version (get the better metalworks valve) for great results. $19 for the valve and a few bucks for some hose barbs. It's very easy, but a boost gauge is recommended for the install. Glad to help, but proceed with caution IE, disclaimer in my sig!
Just follow the links for info and suppliers.
Steve
Just follow the links for info and suppliers.
Steve
#7
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It's all there...
1 metalworks valve
2 hose barbs
2 feet of silicone hose<ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/">http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/</a</li></ul>
1 metalworks valve
2 hose barbs
2 feet of silicone hose<ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/">http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/</a</li></ul>
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#9
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Thanks for the clarification. I'm new to this turbo stuff. I wish I had some help like this when I was trying to figure out Porsche mechanical fuel injection...