SenaTTor

Any recommendations on brake pads for a 225? I hate that the OEM ones dust up so darned much. I have a recommendation for the Hawk pads, but do I go metallic, ceramic, or what? Also, what's the deal with the "no wear sensor" thing? Will it throw a dummy light if there's no wear sensor attached?

I ran into this with my VW, and I tried to use non-sensor pads, and I had a dummy light, so it seems to me that's what would happen in this case too.

Also, I'm getting a little bit too much play in the brake pedal these days... taking too long to actuate, and when it does, it's a bit on the sudden side. I figure new pads will help, but perhaps someone has some insight on this, in case it's indicative of something more involved, like needing to replace brake lines, brake fluid, or the little brake elves that live in my wheels...

Thanks guys, and happy New Year!!!

MCPaudiTT - DEFCON 1

For the wear sensor, if you pads don't come with them, you need to cut the wire off your old set, and short the wires together. Just twist them together, and solder them if you can.

What the "sensor" is just a wire that is embedded in the pad, and when the pads wear out, the wire gets cut, opening the circuit. With the wire soldered together, you turn off the light. You can even just drill a hole in any pad, and embed the wire in it to create a wear "sensor".

TTransport

Also you will want to do a complete fluid flush (5.1) and consider opting for stainless lines

02TTK04

that will probably tighten up the feel of the brake pedal.

specialidiot

a bleed will help a lot. How long since your brake fluid was changed? I just did mine and it made a huge difference.

{edited}

SenaTTor

I've seen them offered around, but I don't know a soul that has 'em installed believe it or not.

Also, I'd normally go with whatever brake fluid the shop puts in... anything specific I should be looking for/at?

SenaTTor

the ceramic, metallic, carbon fibre, and camelhair brake pads?

I was warned by a friend of mine that one of these (although I can't for the life of me remember which) are only really effective once they've heated up, and they take some time to heat up.

TTransport

I've met quite a few people with different preferences on line manufactures/Fluid makers, below are some refs for you... The lines may be overkill, but I discovered how important braking was to me after I had a rotor shear off at a DE.

Fluid:
5.1 Boiling Point Dry >271?C (520?F) / Wet >170?C (338?F)

Dot 4 Boiling Point Dry >260?C (500?F) / Wet >170?C (338?F)

Blurb on Stainless from ECS:
Stainless steel brake lines offer improved pedal modulation and stiffer pedal feel over the stock lines. While stock brake lines are fabricated from a reinforced rubber they can still increase in diameter when pedal pressure is applied. The result is a spongier pedal feel as some of the master cylinder pressure is wasted "inflating" the soft lines. Braided Stainless steel, Teflon cored lines offer superior resistance to deformation under high pressure compared to rubber. All stainless lines are manufactured exclusively for ECS tuning to exacting specifications. Finished lines are then covered with a water/dirt resistant vinyl coating, greatly increasing safety and lifespan of the line

SenaTTor

How much brake fluid is needed for a full change?

specialidiot

1 liter will do it