Brakes, brake pads, and flying monkeys... >>>
01-02-2006, 10:39 AM
#11
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A higher boiling point is better, then...? >>>
ECS has Pentosin Racing Brake Fluid that has a boiling point of 300 degrees... is that, therefore, the bomb-shizzle-dizzle of brake fluids?
In fact, I've noticed that the high-temp stuff is actually cheaper than the 5.1 fluids...? Weird.
In fact, I've noticed that the high-temp stuff is actually cheaper than the 5.1 fluids...? Weird.
01-02-2006, 10:43 AM
#12
True ceramic rotor/pad brakes (that cost multiple thousands of dollars) need to heat up before they
work. They are for use only in racing situations. The PBR ceramics have some ceramic in the compound (instead of metallic flake, carbon fibre, asbestos...). The ceramic is supposed to dust less (or be lighter in color anyway) and handle heat very well. They are good for street use.
01-02-2006, 10:50 AM
#13
The stainless lines are an incremental improvement, and if you don't track your car, I would not say
you need them. Even if you do them, the fronts have a much bigger impact than the rears. The rears are only like 6" long:
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v173/photos/4/435091/2079456/DSCN1131-vi.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_stuff/brakes_and_suspension/stainless_brake_lines/">Stainless Line Install</a></li></ul>
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v173/photos/4/435091/2079456/DSCN1131-vi.jpg"><ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_stuff/brakes_and_suspension/stainless_brake_lines/">Stainless Line Install</a></li></ul>
01-02-2006, 01:24 PM
#14
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I've used several types but stayed away from superblue
I just didn't want the plastic turning blue...
The one I liked best was Motul RBF 600 $15 Dry boiling point: 594F Wet boiling point: 412F,
For aggresive street use I've been quite happy with the Axxis Ultimates, but I've heard that the mintex have less dust.
If you do the work yourself try the Motive Power Bleeder for $47 it pays for itself after one use.
The one I liked best was Motul RBF 600 $15 Dry boiling point: 594F Wet boiling point: 412F,
For aggresive street use I've been quite happy with the Axxis Ultimates, but I've heard that the mintex have less dust.
If you do the work yourself try the Motive Power Bleeder for $47 it pays for itself after one use.
01-03-2006, 06:03 AM
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Don't use 5.1. It doesn't mix with DOT3 or DOT4. It doesn't absorb water...
...which is great until you get pockets of water in your lines corroding your brake system.
Use a high performance DOT4. ECS has an few different ones. As these absorb water, they will both protect your brake system and maintain a high boiling point.<ul><li><a href="http://www.carinsurance.com/Articles/content117.aspx">http://www.carinsurance.com/Articles/content117.aspx</a</li></ul>
Use a high performance DOT4. ECS has an few different ones. As these absorb water, they will both protect your brake system and maintain a high boiling point.<ul><li><a href="http://www.carinsurance.com/Articles/content117.aspx">http://www.carinsurance.com/Articles/content117.aspx</a</li></ul>
01-03-2006, 02:04 PM
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Yearly Maint / Flush resolves all of those concerns...>>>
Why ever have a soft pedal??? I probably overkill, BioTech is right about ECS. Some of the boiling point data I provided in other post on this thread are directly from ECS. The exception being RBF600, which is the brand I prefer.<ul><li><a href="http://www.purems.com/products/description.php?II=775&CA=21&PA=3">http://www.purems.com/products/description.php?II=775&CA=21&PA=3</a</li></ul>
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