SGP

I've never had to replace a clutch (my old 1990 90q20v with 200,000 miles and 1998 A4 2.8qm with 170,000 miles never needed one) but seems like I'll need one at 70,000 miles. This is very strange, but I've read other posts with similar problems (slipping in 6th gear).

Q1: Should the pressure plate always be replaced, or is it okay if it's machined? Since labor is the big expense, should I just go ahead and replace it?

Q2: Why should I need a clutch with so few miles? Poor design? Would my GIAC chip (not 100 octane version) be part of the problem?

Thanks!

AudiMick

I think you mean flywheel not pressure plate and if your car is a Quattro it's dual mass which means $$$ replacement, if it's slipping it's unlikely you can resurface it.

odachimaster

with it "chipped" it would or usually means you want a little quick then stock and in doing so the dual mass clutch will go out....... mine lasted a little longer then yours......

if your going to replace it go for a upgraded one so if you want to have more hp and tq the clutch can handle it and you can take advantage of what you put in to it otherwise your clutch again will go bad. I went with South Bend Clutch for my TT not cheap and labor runs 10 hours but depends on rate...... let me know I can help you find what you want.. L8R...
http://www.whanab.com/

ECS Tuning-Audi

We have a few different clutch and fly wheel options available for your vehicle check them out below.

Click HERE to order or for more information.


Let me know if you have any question.

Jason

odachimaster

Eibach is an excellent brand you can not go wrong with them I am surprise that autoanything had the best price but now days everyone is competitive

AudiMick

That guy spammed every forum.

TTinCT

Dual mass flywheels are near impossible to resurface....some claim to have had them done but i have never seen it done successfully..

If your car is a 225....i would suggest going with the OEM dual mass flywheel....In lighweight single mass solutions have a tendency to be loud and increase cabin noise dramaitcally...

OEM clutch is good for stock and even chipped cars...if you are going beyond that, then i would look at Spec and a few others mentioned here...

As to why your clutch is gone at 70k....if you are not the original owner, then you cannot say the car was not abused or run hard prior to your ownership....

Premature clutch wear in almost all cases is due to poor driving habits....There are flywheels that go bad early...and clutch slaves can fail as well....

It is an 11hr job on average....so figure a 800$-1000K$ in parts....the labor rate will determine the final price...

odachimaster

TTNCT IS CORRECT IN HOURS SOME CHARGE 10 SOME 12 HOURS I WAS LUCKY AND FOUND A GOOD TUNER SHOP THAT CHARGED ME A $60.00 RATE @ 10 HOURS $600.00. LIKE WHAT WAS SAID IF YOUR GOING FOR A BIT OF HORSE POWER "NOE THIS IS TO ME EVEN CHIPPED GIVES YOU AROUND 260 HP VS 225 HP IT WILL TAKE YOUR CLUTCH OUT/ HAVE IT SLIP.....

I HAVE LOOKED AT SPEC / CLUTCHMASTERS /SACH/E AND SOUTH BEND GOOD THINGS CAN BE SAID OF ALL AND BAD THINGS AS WELL... I BELIEVE YOU CAN GO WITH A SINGLE FLYWHEEL BUT MAKE SURE IT IS STEEL NOT ALUMINUM LAST LONGER AND CAN HANDLE THE LOAD

I WENT WITH SOUTH BEND HAVE HAD IT IN FOR 6 MONTHS NO FLAWS SO FAR # K70287 HD OFE AND SINGLE MASS STEEL FLYWHEEL SBCF0503 CAME IN A KIT......

I WAS TOLD I MAY HAVE TO UPGRADE AS THIS CLUTCH MAY NOT HAVE ENOUGH HOLDING POWER FOR WHAT MY ENGINE IS GOING TO PRODUCE. I THOUGHT THIS WOULD BE MORE THEN ADAQUATE
FOR WHAT I WAS DOING SO DECIDE HOW MUCH HP AND TORQUE AND THEN DECIDE ON WHICH CLUTCH