Ronzo

...on contact surfaces of both wheels and discs (I call it significant, because it actually started to have thickness to it as opposed to just being a surface phenomenon), as well as a fair amount of white corrosion dust in the threads of the lugnuts...never having had the wheels off to prep them, I knew this would happen to some extent...and I have often wondered how long it would be before I could anoint Wennch's vehicle with one of the favorite products from my vintage Volvo exploits...ANTI-SIEZE!

...I cleaned up the lugnuts and aforementioned surfaces of the corrosion and applied a light film of anti-seize to them, as well as the luggie threads and their conical contact surfaces. In the case of the wheels, this will prevent the growing corrosion from pushing the wheels away from the disc (possibly causing alignment and warping problems), and in the case of the luggie, it will allow a smooth torquing up to the specified amount, and maybe just as importantly will allow a field (that is non-airtool) removal in the case of a flat. For any TTer who intends to keep their car longterm, I highly recommend this PM to all of those who do level 2 maintenance (that is, beyond screwing on logo valve stem caps)...and since the brake calipers are single piston type which must be free to slide on locating pins, I highly recommend the use of anti seize there too... (but didn't this time...brake pads are fine for now)...but when the time comes to change them to EBC greens, I'll probably be posting another (maybe more detailed) recommendation.

Cheers,

whodkne

I had the same exact symptoms.

evan

Yes, I liked them when I first put them on. Yes, they made the car stop nicely. Yes, they reduced dust by 80 or 90% over OEM. Yes, I believe they led to warped front rotors-- so bad that my passengers can feel the vibration under braking. My EBC's just came off after almost 19K miles, back to stock for a while. Warpage became noticeable within 8-10K of changing to EBC green. I'm going to consider Porterfield or Mintex next time. FWIW...

miTTch

In fact with all the bolts off, it still took an effort to get the wheel off. (All wheels were like this)

I also had to clean the wheel bolts.

Ronzo

...it looks awfull and when it gets worse in a couple of years, you would have a hellova time getting them off!! All I can say is: TinMan time!

OTOF

LOL, Wend, boytoys do rule.. !!

Ronzo

...how pads can cause this...I mean as far as the discs are concerned, I wouldn't expect them to be able to tell the difference between what pads are doing the work...heat is heat...
Warped discs are typically caused by uneven cooling (from for instance something as simple as a rain water splash) and the resulting stress relieving of the metalurgy of the disc. Manufacturers are constantly riding the fine line of making the discs as light as possible (unsprung mass) and still capable of dissapating the huge amounts of heat produced. It sure is a pain when they warp, no doubt.

Cheers