Got Peloquin rear LSD in hand, now just need to get it in car
02-06-2008, 08:22 AM
#11
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With the orange you just get the added awd decel...........i'd rather have more traction ON the gas
the biased % and way it hooks up is the same as my blue. but the LSD will get more rear wheel feel than current. so it's sold as
02-06-2008, 10:26 AM
#15
My maybe irrational train of thought on this is I want less front end grip
ok, so maybe this is a bad idea but the way haldex works, it sends power to the back when the front tires lose traction. If I have a LSD up front there's more traction so less torque will be sent to the rear. If you skip the front diff and just do the rear then there will be more torque transmitted to the back (since fronts are slipping) but now you've got a diff in the back to handle the torque so perhaps the car becomes more throttle steerable.
02-06-2008, 10:43 AM
#16
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that would imply that you can>>>
drive the car at the edge to me, as to get the rear to rotate like that in the TT is not easy....
My setup/experience is to brake a bit earlier and get into the throttle a bit earlier in the turn to get a 4 wheel drift going....that is when this car seems to be the fastest.....
Kicking the rear out is easy in low grip scenarios, but unless you are one of the 400hp guys, i am thinking the best this will do is settle the car thru the turns a bit better and launching. The haldex will still be "disconnected" at the entry point of a turn, and the transfer of power needs to occur earlier otherwise it DOES step out if you brake late....
Just my thought...
My setup/experience is to brake a bit earlier and get into the throttle a bit earlier in the turn to get a 4 wheel drift going....that is when this car seems to be the fastest.....
Kicking the rear out is easy in low grip scenarios, but unless you are one of the 400hp guys, i am thinking the best this will do is settle the car thru the turns a bit better and launching. The haldex will still be "disconnected" at the entry point of a turn, and the transfer of power needs to occur earlier otherwise it DOES step out if you brake late....
Just my thought...
02-06-2008, 10:51 AM
#17
I think I tend to drive the same way
use the haldex to get on the power sooner and maybe get a drift going depending on speed. I'm thinking more for tighter turns, hairpins, where it might be useful to be able to use the throttle to help get the backend to rotate a bit under power.
I've got one spot on my commute that's just a right turn from a stop and with the roads wet and cold with the azenis mounted if I give it a pretty good boot the backend walks around, it's not stepped out really, just helps the car get around the corner. It's fun
I've got one spot on my commute that's just a right turn from a stop and with the roads wet and cold with the azenis mounted if I give it a pretty good boot the backend walks around, it's not stepped out really, just helps the car get around the corner. It's fun
02-06-2008, 10:55 AM
#18
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I agree 100%. that was my rational of doing it this way
the blue box does get power to the back before the front needs to slip so i'm hoping the LSD will also excentuate this rotating feel
02-06-2008, 12:28 PM
#19
While true in theory, the scenario you described will work on a straight line...
or when car is trying to gain traction like when climbing a slippery slope.
On a turn, if the fronts loose grip, then centrifugal force will take over and cause the car to point straight out (understeer). No amount of power on the front or rear axle will initiate a change in direction.
I think what you are trying to describe is after you upset the car, ie, initiate a fast turn in. Then you want the haldex engaged so that both front and rear axles are turning in the same speed. This causes the tires to occupy the same turning radius - and the car will drift. You still want the fronts to maintain traction so that the car doesn't point straight and loose the sideways action.
When the fronts have lots of traction and the rears have reactive drive power (or none - FrontWD), then the rear end just follows the front under power (like towing a trailer), or will swing around the planted front without power (like a pendulum). To upset the car means suspension work first. Then to power out of the turn may require lots of power after Haldex and LSD work depending on how much traction there is.
Having said this, I too am curious with this diff's performance. I will get a haldex controller first before I get this though.
Our TT had more front than rear grip despite rainy weather last weekend.
<img src="http://lubrify.com/autocross-pictures/2008_02_03_SFR_R1_Championship_Oakland/slides/IMG_7629.JPG">
Reason for this is even on exiting a turn, the front axle stays planted while the rear starts to loose traction from the inner tire lifting. So all the rear traction becomes dependent on the outside tire.
<img src="http://lubrify.com/autocross-pictures/2008_02_03_SFR_R1_Championship_Oakland/slides/IMG_7707.JPG">
On a turn, if the fronts loose grip, then centrifugal force will take over and cause the car to point straight out (understeer). No amount of power on the front or rear axle will initiate a change in direction.
I think what you are trying to describe is after you upset the car, ie, initiate a fast turn in. Then you want the haldex engaged so that both front and rear axles are turning in the same speed. This causes the tires to occupy the same turning radius - and the car will drift. You still want the fronts to maintain traction so that the car doesn't point straight and loose the sideways action.
When the fronts have lots of traction and the rears have reactive drive power (or none - FrontWD), then the rear end just follows the front under power (like towing a trailer), or will swing around the planted front without power (like a pendulum). To upset the car means suspension work first. Then to power out of the turn may require lots of power after Haldex and LSD work depending on how much traction there is.
Having said this, I too am curious with this diff's performance. I will get a haldex controller first before I get this though.
Our TT had more front than rear grip despite rainy weather last weekend.
<img src="http://lubrify.com/autocross-pictures/2008_02_03_SFR_R1_Championship_Oakland/slides/IMG_7629.JPG">
Reason for this is even on exiting a turn, the front axle stays planted while the rear starts to loose traction from the inner tire lifting. So all the rear traction becomes dependent on the outside tire.
<img src="http://lubrify.com/autocross-pictures/2008_02_03_SFR_R1_Championship_Oakland/slides/IMG_7707.JPG">
02-06-2008, 12:52 PM
#20
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One thing with the orange controller keeping the rears engaged is weight transfer
of the car to the front under braking wouldn't be so drastic would it? I'm really not sure - but I would think that it would allow you to have more power being put down both through the turn and out of the turn. I think the LSD would definitely help in that regard as well.