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Just hardwired my Passport via a fuse tap ... question why others have chosen to do it ...

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Old 01-19-2002, 01:31 PM
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Default Just hardwired my Passport via a fuse tap ... question why others have chosen to do it ...

the "hard" way? I know others here have advocated taking apart the lower valence panel (under the steering column) and using the +12V lugs there OR tapping into the wires *behind* the fuse box. My question is: is there a benefit to doing it either of these two ways versus just using a fuse tap? Other than not wanting loose cords in the fuse box? I'm just curious. This install took me less than twenty minutes. One minute to actually connect the tap and another maybe fifteen minutes routing all the loose cords behind the dash, etc.

I couldn't believe how easy the whole process was. And I paid $0.99 for the 3 fuse taps at Radio Shack.

TIA.
Old 01-19-2002, 01:36 PM
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Default I did my V1 install from behind the fuse panel . . .

took me under 30 minutes. It is a much cleaner install, no wires in the fuse box in front and the dealer can't bust ***** about seeing wire clutter in there.

I would rather tap a wire with a vampire clip than mess with a fuse in the front of the fuse box.
Old 01-19-2002, 02:08 PM
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Default Here's how I got my 12volts.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24521/fuse_box_with_text.jpg"></center><p>It may not look the best but it is fused and easy to get at.
Old 01-19-2002, 06:45 PM
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Default I used a fuse tap too. That's what they're for.

<center><img src="http://home.midmaine.com/~kentech/auditt/v1_panel.jpg"></center><p>Did this look cluttered?
Old 01-19-2002, 11:16 PM
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Default Used a fuse tap too. V1 even turns off on it's own.

The fuse box has just enough room for the remote module. It's like they intended it. Took 20 minutes and looks pro.
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