Lets talk about HOT brakes a bit...
05-21-2001, 10:04 AM
#31
Uneven brake distribution via hydraulics? There could be so many variables here...
if rotor not warped then let after driving it a few days what does it look like (or let us know what it looks like if not run yet)...just curious
05-21-2001, 10:07 AM
#33
these are street use kevlar though...
EBC has three grades for street, track, and hardcore track use. the street pads don't require warm-up.
don't the semi-metallics poop dust like the OEM pads?
don't the semi-metallics poop dust like the OEM pads?
05-21-2001, 10:09 AM
#34
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Excuse me, you call that hot?
That's nothing, and not a problem, however, there appears to be some fine "crazing" or very fine radial cracks radiating from the hub outwards. If that is only an illusion no sweat if they are cracks, monitor the discs to see what's happening.
By the way, hot is when the entire disc surface is blue, or it still glows red after a stop.
Imagine a disc 22" in diameter and 4" thick glowing not just red, but bright yellow, now thats hot!
By the way, hot is when the entire disc surface is blue, or it still glows red after a stop.
Imagine a disc 22" in diameter and 4" thick glowing not just red, but bright yellow, now thats hot!
05-21-2001, 10:20 AM
#36
Illusion, I think...
looking again with bright flashlight, I don't even see the lines that you pointed out in the pic. These rotors haven't been through anything that would crack them in 8800 miles, unless they were defective.
yes, 22" rotors glowing yellow is trult HOT... but remember, we're discussing OEM brakes here... :-)
Thanks for the observation.
yes, 22" rotors glowing yellow is trult HOT... but remember, we're discussing OEM brakes here... :-)
Thanks for the observation.
05-21-2001, 10:43 AM
#37
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Something does not seem right hear, the rotors a hot spotted so I would take the calipers off and
..look things over. Remove the pads check for baking plate seperation etc. and , see if there is any obvious reason you are not getting full contact. I consider brake pads highly disposable and mine normally never get close to wearing out because I change them at the slightest sign of trouble. If you have a dial gauge I would check rotor run-out just to see if there is any and how bad it is. Then get the rotors turned down (a good machine shop or auto parts store) and dump the pads in the trash bin. I think I would try a different pad compound while I was at it.
05-21-2001, 10:44 AM
#38
Bottom line is that the rotor contact area is the only place that is doing any braking...
The rest of your rotor is under utilized for braking as well as cooling. Mintex. My cross drills don't fade and have a nice even hue across the whole rotor surface after very abusive mountain driving almost daily. [no cracking either] I didn't even need to go to SS lines, just uber rated brake fluid. 