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Lubed Rear Sway Bar--popping/creak still there. Ideas for me . . . anyone?

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Old 01-29-2004, 07:42 AM
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Default Lubed Rear Sway Bar--popping/creak still there. Ideas for me . . . anyone?

This is driving me crazy!

Removed & replaced the rear sway bar yesterday--loaded the bushings with Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease (bushings were dry, by the way). I still have this very annoying pop/creak noise that occurs over small bumps in the road. Here are the particulars:

1) It's been going on for over a year;
2) Makes it difficult to enjoy driving the car
3) Never took it in to Audi, b/c I figured they'd blame my aftermarket suspension and they always damage my car when they work on it (except once);
4) Noise definitely comes from the right (passenger side) rear trunk area. When I re-did my stereo, I had my wife drive around with me in the backseat area (with no backseat--ouch). I had the whole backseat, spare tire/tools, floor, etc all removed. The noise is coming from beneath the area circled in my picture below--you can almost feel it there:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15642/493978_25_full2.jpg">

Any ideas what it could be? I'm fairly aware of the anatomy of this car, but I'm at a loss. Help!
Old 01-29-2004, 08:09 AM
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Default when i installed my eibachs...

on one side the spring wasn't aligned with the tab in the rubber seat that holds the spring in place. consequently, everytime i hit a bump, it sounded like the spring was clicking or squeaking. I took the spring out, made sure it was aligned with the tab, and have had no problems since.

let me know if this isn't clear.
Old 01-29-2004, 08:18 AM
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Default Hmmmm . . . maybe it's time to get a spring compressor @ PepBoys. Could you

see that the spring wasn't seated properly without removing it first?
Old 01-29-2004, 08:31 AM
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Default Hey John, you may want to check your Haldex bolts...

It look like to be in the area you indicating. Since they are stretch bolts, there's a chance that that side may have given way a bit.

Btw, I don't think you can see the tab of the spring on that side. I could be mistake which side is facing inward. However, you can feel for the tab.
Old 01-29-2004, 08:34 AM
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Default

Thanks Gary! Hope all is well w/you. Are the Haldex bolts 1-torque-only?
Old 01-29-2004, 08:38 AM
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Default on the rears i didn't even need a spring compressor

once the koni's and eibachs were on. I don't know what you are running...

If you know what to look for, yes, you can see that the tab is not aligned properly. It is being smashed by the car at rest. You will probably at least have to remove the wheel to see.
Old 01-29-2004, 08:48 AM
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Default Gotcha. I can always jack it up. So you can shift the spring when the car's up?

<center><img src="http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_34_full.jpg"></center><p>H&amp;Rs (blech) &amp; Bilstein Sports.
Old 01-29-2004, 08:58 AM
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Default Yeah, I'm doing well...just got the boot taken off, and trying to rehab the

achilles.

Yes, the Haldex bolts are just like the subframe bolts and are one torque only. There's some that have used them more than once. Those bolts do come loose and stretch over time. When I installed my KMACs and Forge arms, I made sure to get a set of bolts. They're pretty cheap, but a bitch to take out without an air gun.
Old 01-29-2004, 09:00 AM
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Default Only problem is that if the base support is not aligned, you'll need to take

the spring off to do it. There's a little hole on the mount to help with the alignment onto the arm. If the mount is off, so will your spring, even if your do turn it to the tab.
Old 01-29-2004, 09:20 AM
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Default Also try......>

Most people install the shocks with the suspension in full droop... Loosen the top and bottom rear shock bolts with the car on it's wheels and re-tighten. This has worked for some...Takes any twist preload out of the bushings


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