germintor

The check engine light comes on. The garage checked the error code:
#17536 Fuel trim (mult.) system too lean (P1128)

They also checked the readings:
Data block values 08/00 field 9: 116, field 10: 190
08/032 field 1: -2.3%, field 2: 24.2%

They claim that these readings are bogus and therefore the MAF sensor is broken. They also checked for leaks in the intake but found none. Reading older posts, this seems a reasonable diagnosis.

They want $315 for the job ($237 for the part and $78= 0.8 hours for labor). I saw from older posts that Audi extended the warranty on this part to 70,000 miles. Unfortunately, I am at 83,000. I also see that one can order the parts for the VW 2.0L engine here:
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi/?html=learnmore.html&productID=1326
Then unscrew the sensor and replace it in the MAF body. This seems to be an "easy" job, so I would be inclined to try it myself.

Can anybody who has tried this please post some instructions/hints?

Thanks.

Seneb

recently added a VTDA and **** (yeah, the old one), and it hasn't blown. I picked up the MAF from the local VW dealer for around $65 (i think). go for it!!!!

Astronut

Save $$ and do it yourself. Very easy. Not sure why they're charging .8 hours of labor for a 10 minute job (at most).

If you have 180 (usually engine code ATC) you can buy the correct MAF (not the VW one) from ECS for around $190 and still save money. I am running the VW one in a Modshack **** with no problems.

Not sure about running the VW MAF in the 225 engine maybe someone else can chime in.

Install is easy 5 min job if you're replacing the entire MAF (housing and all). Two hose clamps on either end, unplug sensor wires, out with the bad in with the good and reverse. I've used the VW MAF intact (did not swap sensor to old housing) but if you want to swap sensor just use vise grips to get screws out.

Liamo

I had the same DTC 'fuel trim' and just replaced the MAF on my 00 225 and its a ten minute job. The piece was 100 euro exchange for the old one, Irish prices! Still good. All you need is a philips screwdriver and remove a few screws. Look at WAKS TT website and he shows how to do it. Good Luck.

MCPaudiTT - DEFCON 1

I have been using one in my '01 225 for over a year now...

MCPaudiTT - DEFCON 1

you can replace the housing and all. That takes two hose clamps and you are done. If you order a part that you need to uninstall the sensor from the housing, it is a little more difficult, but not much. You will need to remove two security Allen bolts, and you likely don't have the right tool to do that. The "backup" tool is a pair of vise-grips, used thusly:

<img src="http://images8.fotki.com/v153/photos/4/435091/1703547/connectingtheMAFfromthehousing-vi.jpg">

For more directions, follow the link, and follow steps 11-16 only...<ul><li><a href="http://public.fotki.com/mcphill/audi_stuff/modshack_stuff/bamm/">Follow steps 11-16 here...</a></li></ul>

OldSchool AG

it varies by engine code/VIN. if you're unsure check with the dealer parts department.

i really don't understand why people do this... i mean it MIGHT work depending on some variables, but what's the point? just to be different? sorry, but i'll be a conformist here. running incorrect MAFs could have long term implications like killing the kitty cats... not good... and $$$$.

MCPaudiTT - DEFCON 1

readings are incorrect. The default maps in the ECU should perform better.

germintor

...because it's $200 cheaper?

Astronut

Sorry, just beating roadyTT to the punch.

Many here have had success with the VW 2.0 MAF P/N: 06A906461A. As long as the O2 sensors are functioning properly the ECU will adapt the A/F ratio to compensate for the slightly higher g/s output.

I STFA and if I have it right 180 ATC/AWP MAF is 06A906461D and 225 AMU MAF is P/N: 06A906461E