OldSchool AG

i don't believe that's true. for my TT (ATC engine) the correct MAF was $120

OldSchool AG

i really don't care what anyone does... i'm just saying I don't frigging get it... it's not a goddamn science experiement and for the most part i can put the technical expertise on this forum into a thimble, however, everyone seems to be a damn expert on what parts they can substitute for correct OEM.... so... have at it, Professors.

Astronut

ECU will compenstate within the narrow range that VW MAF is off from TT MAF.

There is obviously a reason why there are different MAFs and I'm hoping that reason is other than "we can charge 2-3 times as much for a part that lasts 1/2 - 1/3 as long". Like many here I've had the frustration of going through 2 TT MAFs. I purchased the VW MAF I'm using now as an inexpensive way to determine that my TT MAF was toast. Then I replaced it with a new TT MAF (now also toast).

Granted one should always us the correct part for the car but if the Audi engineers have it all figured out for us then why tune/mod at all?

Agree that were not rocket scientists (well actually I am - but that doesn't mean I know jack about tuning cars) but I think the collective experience, and a bit of prudence is useful in walking that narrow line between enhancing the performance of your car and totally f'ckng it up. To wit I was just lending my experience to someone who hadn't been down that road b4.

I've said too much already, I'm outa this one.

germintor

I followed OldSchool AG's advice, and bought the correct part, especially because the stealer sold one to me for $138+tax.

It was easy, except that one screw is very hard to reach on the 180 engine.

Thanks for your help.

OldSchool AG

(which I am not) you seem to be forgetting that the output of any hot-wire MAF is not linear... so.... while the output of the VW MAF may be 2x vs the correct MAF at one point, it coule be 4x at another, and so on...

so you're asking your ECU to adapt at different levels at different times. I'm sorry, but as advanced as our ECUs are, they aren't quite THAT good.

So I still maintain, the absolutely correct way is NOT to mess with it... stick with stock... of course, once you start modding, as you allude to, this all goes out the window. I don't really need the extra 20, 40, 60 HP that badly, so I ride on with my meager 180, happily.