VAP

and its curable/fixable and will have you back to better than Mk1 toot-sweet. And no one can see it while its on the car.

Gimme some time on this. Its in the works. Two versions, one adjustable and one "fixed." And its cheap... maybe $40 fixed, and $80-100 for adjustable. Not big ticket and will outlive the car. And I'm doing them for sway bar bushings and steering rack too and a few rear susp pieces.

But dont count on it before 4th quarter.

smallTTs

When control arms move, the bushings either have to move in their (outer) shells, which is normally done with urethane bushings, or twist between the outer shell and inner sleeve, (which is trapped between frame brackets with the attaching bolt).

Rubber bushings twist, which means they never need lubrication. Many aftermarket urethane bushings come with grease fittings. Most also come with a packet of grease for original installation. Dry bushings squeak (and wear).

You made a great point about Delrin. It doesn't work as the structural member of the bushing, just the rotating /sliding members usually inside an aluminum spacer. Try Global West's link here for their Del-a-lum bushings. Virtually no compliance here. Still need greasing though.

I think that the larger bushings in the TT Mod. allow more compliance when heavily loaded (eg: violent maneuvering @130 mph) and therefore slow down the response. This is counterproductive for racing, so a bushing change is essential for racing. If springs & dampers are stiffened, bushings become the weak link and should probably be changed.

One really needs to look at the whole system: ride height, springs, dampers, wheels, tires, bushings, antiroll bars in order to develop the desired combination of ride and handling. A well developed package of all of these items, while very costly, could be interesting. Hmmm.<ul><li><a href="http://www.globalwest.net/1964-72%20A-BODIES.htm">http://www.globalwest.net/1964-72%20A-BODIES.htm</a</li></ul>