more power please
#11
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Abt in the US and Abt in Europe are two different chips. In the US Abt is still programming their chips to work better.
Fine tuning by Garrett, APR and MTM is a different sort of fine tuning. These companies are fine tuning for increased performance. Abt is fine tuning for proper/correct drive-a-bility! I talked to Pete of Strat at FW about this, he is the one that told me that. They have a few chips out in TT's as "test mules" if you will.
As for Abt being the only chip factory installed, MTM I believe has that same honor.
The RPM limiter is not the same as where peak hp/torque comes into play. ALL of the chips peak within 5,500 and 6,000. But they also raise the rpm limiter to over 7,000 rpm. That is the point where the fuel gets cut off so the engine does not get damaged.
Fine tuning by Garrett, APR and MTM is a different sort of fine tuning. These companies are fine tuning for increased performance. Abt is fine tuning for proper/correct drive-a-bility! I talked to Pete of Strat at FW about this, he is the one that told me that. They have a few chips out in TT's as "test mules" if you will.
As for Abt being the only chip factory installed, MTM I believe has that same honor.
The RPM limiter is not the same as where peak hp/torque comes into play. ALL of the chips peak within 5,500 and 6,000. But they also raise the rpm limiter to over 7,000 rpm. That is the point where the fuel gets cut off so the engine does not get damaged.
#12
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Thank you for making my point from your message "That is the point where the fuel gets cut off so the engine does not get damaged" and some aftermarket chips increase this from (Audi's 6600) to (chip 7100). If your theory's correct as long as the TT has a rev limiter say 8500 it will protect the engine.
#13
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No, at some point the engine will or can blow if the limit is set too high.
I have had my TT at 7,100 redline in 3rd gear on the track on more than one occasion and the fuel cut-off does work and the engine did NOT blow up.
These engines would never rev to 8,500 even with new cams! It would take too much to lighten them enough to run that high.
I have had my TT at 7,100 redline in 3rd gear on the track on more than one occasion and the fuel cut-off does work and the engine did NOT blow up.
These engines would never rev to 8,500 even with new cams! It would take too much to lighten them enough to run that high.
#14
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So far, I have shortened the decision down to APR or Garrett. I'm leaning toward the Garrett right now. I've e-mailed Dynospotracing, but they haven't responded yet with pricing and availability. The next question I have is this:
After I install the chip, I don't want to stop there, I would eventually like to get around 240HP and 280 ft. lb. torque. So...
Am I right to assume my next step is an exhaust (probably Borla) - I've been to your site and listened to the UUC Motorwerks exhaust and it seemed too racy for me.
After that are we talking an intercooler and then a turbo upgrade?
Does that seem like a natural progression? Also, would a K&N air filter help with any of the steps? Am I missing anything? Thanx for the advice, it has helped me alot.
Best Regards,
the-breadman
After I install the chip, I don't want to stop there, I would eventually like to get around 240HP and 280 ft. lb. torque. So...
Am I right to assume my next step is an exhaust (probably Borla) - I've been to your site and listened to the UUC Motorwerks exhaust and it seemed too racy for me.
After that are we talking an intercooler and then a turbo upgrade?
Does that seem like a natural progression? Also, would a K&N air filter help with any of the steps? Am I missing anything? Thanx for the advice, it has helped me alot.
Best Regards,
the-breadman
#15
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After the chip, get an exhaust. Then instead of a K&N filter, I would get the LLTek intake. They are claiming 15+hp, but it might not be accurate, possibly closer to 5-8hp. Either way it will help put you close to 230hp. Then once you get an FMIC you will be freeing up LOTS more power without ever touching the turbo! ![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The Borla is very quiet until you get quite a few miles on it. But the UUC is not really very racy, it sounds very nice. I plan on getting it at some point in time. You will not be disappointed in the Borla. Just give it time to "season" before you hear a big difference over stock. Mine sounds much nicer now with about 15-20,000 miles on it.
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The Borla is very quiet until you get quite a few miles on it. But the UUC is not really very racy, it sounds very nice. I plan on getting it at some point in time. You will not be disappointed in the Borla. Just give it time to "season" before you hear a big difference over stock. Mine sounds much nicer now with about 15-20,000 miles on it.
#16
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I'm taking my car in on Friday to Dynospotracing for the chip install. One other question which sounds fishy to me...I mentioned that I wanted a second ECU so I can swap it out when I take my car to the dealer and the guy quoted me an extra $50 for the chip, not the ECU, but he said you can just swap the GIAC and standard chip on the same ECU, this didn't sound right to me? Am I correct, what is he talking about?
Thanx again.
Best Regards,
the-breadman
Thanx again.
Best Regards,
the-breadman
#17
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and to me the more dangerous way. If all you do is remove the chip and place a stock in its place, then if the dealer were to have to swap ECU's for some reason the you are screwed!
The dealer might not open the ECU but the techs in Germany most certainly will! When they do and they see the socket soldered inside you will be screwed!
That is why i tell everyone to buy a spare ECU! It is also much easier to swap out an ECU then to have to open your and swap chips and then replace the ECU.
The dealer might not open the ECU but the techs in Germany most certainly will! When they do and they see the socket soldered inside you will be screwed!
That is why i tell everyone to buy a spare ECU! It is also much easier to swap out an ECU then to have to open your and swap chips and then replace the ECU.
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