Boosted

about those who switched to 18 volts? I am not a believer in resetting the ecu gives more power. I think that mostly if theres a felt power gain its do to the car having a problem, shortly after reset it will once again return to its faulty state, whether its generating codes or not. Does the coilpacks not act like a mini amplifier which turns 12v input into a signigantly higher output at the plug end? 40000 volts? I dunno exact number on these cars. But being as there is a cycling effect, cause its not capacitor discharge then wouldnt you think that a low input voltage from a bad battery would subsequently effect rise rates and end voltage? I dont see how the alternator can factor in a dead or low battery, I wasnt refering to cranking amps, I was talking about operating voltage. A good battery should be like 13.4 on a 12 volt system with 11.9-12.8 being a decent range. If increased voltage has no effect, why then does dielectric grease on contacts, plugs, boots ect help out?? Sure it lowers resitance, but i just dont see how a lower voltage would not cause a power drop. Have you measured it to see if in fact its not the case? In the past on another car, I switched to a 14 volt battery, which had a digital cd ignition with 75 thou volt coils, I found that power wise the car was quicker with a higher voltage coming out of the battery. This car had a dumb ecu that didnt learn much. So a reset was a waste of time. Dont you think that a higher voltage equates to more fuel being burnt in the chamber? I know you do alot of electronics and stuff...but I have seen things work differently then what your stating..

JustJeff

A car battery cannot put out more than 12 volts, if it's a 12 volt battery. Start there first.

A 14, 18 or 24 volt battery is not gonna drive higher output to coil-packs.

An alternator puts out a minumum of 13.5 volts. It has to in order to keep the battery charged.
If the alternator voltage falls below 12 volts, it will not charge a 12 volt battery.
Consequently, people that use a larger voltage battery (18 volts?) will not get it charged by the cars alternator.
it can't. You cannot change these electrical laws.

As far as the coil-packs go, the voltage to them is constant, never mind the state of the battery or alternator.
When the car is running, the coil packs are getting a variable voltage into them from the alternator. They are internally regulated, as are all the other car electronics, for 12 volts, 5 volts, etc. The input voltage to the coil pack can probably go as high as 36 volts with *no* change in the output (yes, could be as high a 50KV)
However, if the input voltage drops below the regulated requirements of say 12 volts, the coil-packs will suffer.
No increase in voltage to the coil-packs will result in increase power to the plugs.
It can't, they don't work that way

the dielectric grease assists in *current* transfer (amperage) in and out of the battery,and also in directing the high-output voltage to the plugs, so it does not get drained off by ground potential, rain, etc.

In your case that you describe, an old CD ignition system, and increased *input* voltage could result in an increased *output* to the plugs.
Not in our cars.

The coil-packs are voltage and current limited to work for a variable input voltage to them, and provide a constant output, and it will not effect the output to the plugs, unless the input drops below nominal volts.

Boosted

my battery has measure over 13 volts when new. This isnt out of line. This is measure using an Industrial Fluke volt meter. I have also put an amp clamp on it and have a multi meter that measures all profiles. On the battery with higher voltages i have seen different pulley sizes used if the alternator remains the same to increase rpms...

JustJeff

A car battery at rest *cannot* put out more than 12 volts. Underdrive on the alternator?? Good Luck!

Boosted

Im am not disputing alot of what you said. But explain why when I measure my battery on occasion and the car is off when it was new it put out over 12 volts. This isnt the first 12v battery I have had that put out more that that. Theres nothing wrong with my tester its Industrial grade, for serious accurate heavy duty stuff.

mcgilla

....is going on a different ramp of the map with lower temps in particular...and the humidity will supress any transients. The map with cooler temps will all others things being equal ramp to higher peak and holding boost...that said a battery that's very low (11.3V or less) will shunt out the ECU into a failover/limp mode