ok, I gave up and "my long national nightmare" is over ;-)
02-07-2009, 04:59 PM
#1
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ok, I gave up and "my long national nightmare" is over ;-)
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/53277/02_07_09_009.jpg"></center><p>
After months of knocking, I just had enough, put powerflexes in the rear bush. Not nearly as tight as the spherical bearings - almost sloppy by comparison (I think this is Defcon 1, powerflex in both front/rear), but QUIET! Ahhhhhh, he sighs in relief.
I still don't think it was my install; both spherical's 'popped' - a sign of the adhesive bond breaking - when I pressed them out, but who knows.
I do have a plan to somehow go back to a spherical though, sometime.
After months of knocking, I just had enough, put powerflexes in the rear bush. Not nearly as tight as the spherical bearings - almost sloppy by comparison (I think this is Defcon 1, powerflex in both front/rear), but QUIET! Ahhhhhh, he sighs in relief.
I still don't think it was my install; both spherical's 'popped' - a sign of the adhesive bond breaking - when I pressed them out, but who knows.
I do have a plan to somehow go back to a spherical though, sometime.
02-07-2009, 07:18 PM
#2
That's kind of reminiscent of my Tyroll Sport stiffener-- Hawk HP+ brake NVH
They rattle and they squeal, but boy do they stop. Firm pedal and awesome bite.
Sounds like a dump truck.
I really should change them out after track events. Lazy.
Sounds like a dump truck.
I really should change them out after track events. Lazy.
02-08-2009, 05:16 AM
#4
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oh, I have NVH and don't mind squealing brakes; this was a constant 'knocking' >
that just drove me crazy, you could hear ir outside the car and occurred at anything less that 50 mph. Same irritation level as a rattle you can't find or fix, just nuts.
02-08-2009, 05:38 AM
#6
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Yeah I am. Probably 1.25", so I will. Did a real good install on these >
I took great care not to fatigue the retaining lip (not the washer) - I wasted one of these over-doing it about a year ago, but yes, there is excess twist angle on them to keep an eye on. Been chatting with scch, btw.
02-08-2009, 05:46 AM
#7
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Cool - i've got a set of street engine mounts and a track density dog bone to go in
hopefully stop my horrible downpipe rattle. It's either those or the DP is cracked. Sucks.
Good luck with the poly's. My GC camber plates will go in as soon as the DP rattle is solved.
Good luck with the poly's. My GC camber plates will go in as soon as the DP rattle is solved.
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02-08-2009, 06:54 AM
#8
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I picked up a set of 034 track density strut mounts; not here yet >
and not sure when I'll do the install. Also got a spare set of MK1 rear bushes just in case the polys didn't/don't work.
Too bad about the dp - thought that symptom was just common to roadsters.
Too bad about the dp - thought that symptom was just common to roadsters.
02-08-2009, 07:01 AM
#9
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It's been fine for 2 years and now after the last 3 day track session it started rattling/clunking
and i've tried to find the problem - but it's so hard to see all around the damn thing to check for cracks. I got at it from the top and the bolts appear tight - but you can see where it's hitting, just can't seem to see if there is anything wrong with the DP or if it's the engine rocking.
The track density dogbone is 80 durometer including the rear rubber bush - so it should be just a bit stiffer then the 75 durometer energy bushes in my stock one - but it could also be the rubber rear bush in the stock dogbone that is shot considering the rest of the rubber/poly is harder. We'll see.
I decided to do the GC camber plates because without them i'm gonna eat through R-comps by cording the edges - since they need a minimum of 2 degrees of negative camber. If I didn't go this route I would have done the track density strut mounts.
The track density dogbone is 80 durometer including the rear rubber bush - so it should be just a bit stiffer then the 75 durometer energy bushes in my stock one - but it could also be the rubber rear bush in the stock dogbone that is shot considering the rest of the rubber/poly is harder. We'll see.
I decided to do the GC camber plates because without them i'm gonna eat through R-comps by cording the edges - since they need a minimum of 2 degrees of negative camber. If I didn't go this route I would have done the track density strut mounts.
02-08-2009, 07:48 AM
#10
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Gotcha. >
Presume you can see the flex pipe, and presume you'd be able to hear added noise from a crack/tear? And just for the heck of it, have you looked at that cast lug on the engine that the pass side motor mount secures to? There was a post on that not too long ago, seems like 42dd had a repair kit for it; I wonder if that failed on you.