Paul Allen

Has anybody figured out a good position for a cordless radar detector in their TT?

Ari Jay Comet

First off, my location of choice has been just to the right of the rear-view mirror. This allows it to be way-up on the windshield (good for out low cars) and out of the visible way of the driver. It is still in arms-reach to mute!<p>Secondly, I managed to take a 2-way 12-volt cig-unit splitter, and modify it to fit in the car. This allows me to close the ash-tray while driving, and the wire just slides back towards the passengers feet. (The wire gets squished in, but it does allow the tray to close completely).<p>Then, I can hook up my radar (corded) and not have to worry about strange wires hanging all over. I will try to take pictures soon.<p>Later,<br>Ari

Michael Dyer

I installed my ValentineOne last week. According to Valentine (and most of the tests), the cordless detectors have substantially lower range. For sure, don't have the detector in front of the tint band as this also lowers range.<p>I added a 12v outlet for the unit underneath the flap above the rear-view mirror. To do this, I tapped the power going to the overhead lights. Here are the steps:<p>1. Remove the plastic lens from the overhead lights.<p>2. Use a flat-head screwdriver to detach the clips holding the lower (toward the front of the car) side of the lighting assembly. BE CAREFUL. The top side of the lighting assembly is held by thin plastic tabs so you don't want to apply any force to that area. It helps if you pull down on the front of the assembly while you are doing this operation.<p>3. Remove about 1-1/2 inches of the wiring harness jacket at the end where it connects to the lighting assembley.<p>4. Install quickTap connectors on to the red wire and the outside brown wire (brown/black) if I remember correctly. These connectors are available at Radio Shack and allow you to splice a wire without having to cut/solder/tape. They have some new ones that allow for a side connection which I reccomend because they take up less space. <p>5. I built a small wiring harness to connect ot the quickTap connectors. The power lead has a in-line 1A 250V (same as detector) fuse. The leads are connected to a Radio Shack surface-mount 2.5MM power connector (looks like a headphone jack). <p>6. I drilled a hold to mount the connector. Careful placement is critical because the clearances in this area are very small. If you drill in the wrong place, you'll never be able to get the connector in place from the top.<p>6. After testing all of the connections, I then closed up everything and turned my attention to the external cord. I ended up purchasing a 6.95 lighter adapter from Radio Shack because it had a nice molded 90 degree connector. I cut of the lighter end and added a plug to match my detector.<p>Most people who see the install say that it looks like it came that way from the factory. I now only have a short cord that leads from the top of the rearview to the detector (located dead-center in the windshield so that the front and rear antennas both have visibility.<p>Hope this helps...

Michael Dyer

Here's my reply to a message I received earlier today asking for more details:<p>I'll be glad to post some pictures, but it will take me a few days (gotta find a digital camera). The finished product is a silver hole about 2/3 the size of a dime located in the indent where the flip-down thing above the rear-view mirror is located. With the flip-down thing closed (up), you can't see a thing. With it down, all you see is a connector similar to the round power outlet on a radio, etc.<p>The install is really cool because if you leave the detector on and arm the alarm system it will automatically turn off. When you disarm the system it will turn back on again.<p>The parts list is relatively easy and I'll post a full list with the pictures. Here's what you have to get (from memory):<p>1. A replacement cord with a 2.5mm plug. Radio Shack sells them as replacements for damaged cigarette lighter adapters. There are several models and the main difference is the plug size. ($6.99)<p>2. An in-line fuse. Radio Shack sells three different versions. The first is for cartridge-type fuses, the second is for large glass fuses and the third is for small glass fuses like the Valentine uses. Get the third and a packet of 250V 1A slow-blow fuses to match the Valentine. The in-line holder has about 4-6 inches of red wire on each end. (about $3.00)<p>3. Some black wire to carry the ground (if you don't have any laying around) (from $0.00 to $3.00)<p>4. Some of the tap-in connectors to tap the power and ground lines. (about $3.00)<p>5. Some spade-type connectors to put on the ends of the wires that connect to the tap-in connectors in step 4. ($2.00 - $3.00)<p>6. The 2.5MM surface-mount power outlet. They sell two versions and you should get the smaller one as it has a smaller mounting depth. (about $3.50)<p>7. Solder and a soldering iron (if you have to buy one, get the cheapest soldering iron and the most expensive solder .5 in diameter)<p>8. A modular phone plug (2-pair/4 wire) and the crimp tool. ($2.00 and about $9.00)<p>9. Some tape or shrink tubing to close things up and make them look neat. ($2-3)<p>10. If you have a Digital Multimeter, this is great as you can test everything out. ($100+)<p>11. A 21/32 drill bit (the size is specified on the power outlet in step 6. ($5.00)<p>The whole install took a couple of hours because I had to figure out what goes where and how to disassemble the light fixture. I could probably do it in half an hour now.<p>Michael

Bruce R.

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