S line Heated and Illuminated Shift Knob Installed - *Warning: Once you go heated you won't go back*
01-02-2006, 05:59 AM
#21
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I need three things from you
Ai= Inner Surface Area of the **** in m^2
Ao= Outer Surface Area of the **** in m^2
V = Volume of the **** in m^3
Sphere
V=4/3*Pi*r^3)
Your heated seat switch pretty much does exactly what you're talking about with 14.3V already so I'm sure it would work. It's either all on or all off dependant on temp. I thought about building a timer like you mentioned, but opted to try to match the shifter heater to the seat heaters this way I can control/regulated the temp with the same switch and I don't have to worry about the **** getting to hot. (Fail Safe, right?) I leave my heated seats on all winter so basically I've set my shift **** to 105 deg. Al has a very high K value so you're going to feel changes in temp rather quickly even if there not that big so I like your idea of a timer to heat it up quick but you'll need to design a way for it also to maintain a constant temp. as well. Let me know the answers to the questions above and I'll help get you a wattage.
Ao= Outer Surface Area of the **** in m^2
V = Volume of the **** in m^3
Sphere
V=4/3*Pi*r^3)Your heated seat switch pretty much does exactly what you're talking about with 14.3V already so I'm sure it would work. It's either all on or all off dependant on temp. I thought about building a timer like you mentioned, but opted to try to match the shifter heater to the seat heaters this way I can control/regulated the temp with the same switch and I don't have to worry about the **** getting to hot. (Fail Safe, right?) I leave my heated seats on all winter so basically I've set my shift **** to 105 deg. Al has a very high K value so you're going to feel changes in temp rather quickly even if there not that big so I like your idea of a timer to heat it up quick but you'll need to design a way for it also to maintain a constant temp. as well. Let me know the answers to the questions above and I'll help get you a wattage.
01-02-2006, 06:31 AM
#22
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That's the type I used - those are 115V no? So you'll need to calculate V=IR & P=V^2/R
I'd check out the Minco site it's very easy to configure exactly what you need. It will also do all of the calculation for you 
You're looking for a min. of 5W
You're looking for a min. of 5W
01-02-2006, 07:02 AM
#25
thx. no such luck with same wattage, different length. closest i can get is....
this model....
HR5244R21.7L12E
BTW, how did the top shift pattern pop off. i remember you saying that it twists off? but how and what did you use to do it? thx.
HR5244R21.7L12E
BTW, how did the top shift pattern pop off. i remember you saying that it twists off? but how and what did you use to do it? thx.
01-02-2006, 07:17 AM
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Did you try this one HR5326R30.6L80E?
The pattern in the S-line **** will need to milled/turned out on a lathe. The shift pattern on a regular **** just pops out. Its held in place with double sided tape.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1402017.phtml">First Post</a></li></ul>
01-02-2006, 08:17 AM
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You have two other choices...
1. You can put the heater at the bottom of the shaft where you can't see it and let convection currents heat the rest of the **** up. The losses in this idea would be pretty great so you would need to step the wattage up, but there isn't a reason why it wouldn't work.
2. Take you S-line **** off and slide a largest dia. rod you can fit down inside it to contact the shift pattern. The **** is two pieces. Found this out after I turned the shift pattern out for the illuminated insert. I didn't try taking it apart because I was going to turn it on the lathe anyways. I can tell you it is two pieces press fit together so you should be able to force them apart. Tap on the rod to see if you can get anything to move. Do NOT swing to hard its only aluminum and you don't want to deform the face of your pattern. The ring/line you see around the **** below the 8 dimples is the line where they separate. I would also insert a couple plastic shims in there as well to help force it apart while to tap. Use plastic or a screwdriver so you don't damage your ****. (Home Depot sells the shims)
2. Take you S-line **** off and slide a largest dia. rod you can fit down inside it to contact the shift pattern. The **** is two pieces. Found this out after I turned the shift pattern out for the illuminated insert. I didn't try taking it apart because I was going to turn it on the lathe anyways. I can tell you it is two pieces press fit together so you should be able to force them apart. Tap on the rod to see if you can get anything to move. Do NOT swing to hard its only aluminum and you don't want to deform the face of your pattern. The ring/line you see around the **** below the 8 dimples is the line where they separate. I would also insert a couple plastic shims in there as well to help force it apart while to tap. Use plastic or a screwdriver so you don't damage your ****. (Home Depot sells the shims)