PhilMason

I'm reluctant to go either of the two routes we talked about (subframe bolts or the 3 other ones, although I did try these and can't even budge them). I've followed the bentley manual instructions, they've got to be wrong or missing some little piece of advice. I've got the lower end of the strut to move quite a ways out of the housing, but there is still about 3/4" or so left in the housing and no room to play.

I'm about ready to button it back up and go to the professionals

IslOMan

I agree with you. There's no way to get them off unless you drop the subframe (did that the first time) or remove the 3 bolts attaching the lower control arm (recommended). Just trace around the 3 bolts BEFORE you remove them because the holes in the a-arm are elongated. Then restore the position in the arm when you reassemble. Use a 1/2 in breaker bar to get them loose. You'll still have to wrestle the strut off but this makes it much easier.

S4iscool

talkin about the bottom of the strut? this is where the BMFH comes into play...pound it out.

PhilMason

The geometry simply isn't correct. 3/4" of the strut remains in the arm after beating the tar out of it. The arm needs to drop further in order for the geometry to open up and allow the strut to be removed. Thats why the 3 bolts or the subframe bolts need to be messed with. PITA. I'll be dropping the arm tomorrow.

Absolut Todd

Do you have the little stubby screwdriver to wedge into the back side of the strut mount? it expands the area to allow the strut to come out.

PhilMason

yeah, I've got that pryed open as well.

S4iscool

yup, we had to grind down a chisel to wedge in there and pry it apart while taking a whack at it.

Absolut Todd

Did you use a bunch of WD40 as well?

PhilMason

Since I the car up on stands, I found that from a standing position, pushing down and angling the rotor in slightly at the top using my bodyweight was much more effective. Not sure I needed to pound it out at all.