TTschwing

Seems I was getting a lot of suspension rattle lately and it was getting progressively worse. My recent trip to Joisy really made it noticeable and was driving me crazy. Finding nothing loose, I suspected (correctly as it turned out) it was the spherical bearings in the Ground Control Camber plates. This was a little disappointing as they've only been in 6 months and maybe 3K miles...(they are easily replaceable though). I decided to swap back to rubber.
If you've got more than 50K on your original bushings/bearings, you're probably due for a freshening up...

You'll be replacing #5 and 6:
<img src="http://images5.fotki.com/v72/photos/7/7305/776256/strut-vi.jpg">

Anyway, here's the steps:

1) Remove Sway bar link (PS, Both wheels need to be off the ground ie: no tension on the bar for this to be easy..)
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v190/photos/7/7305/2455263/DSC03880-vi.jpg">

2) Compress the suspension a little with a block under the arm, lower the car, and remove top nut(s)(or just leave the wheels on). (Note: I have Eibachs and Bilsteins and the springs are relaxed at full droop so no need for compressors. If your springs are tensioned you'll need to ratchet strap the springs down or use a spring compressor. This will prevent a loud and potentially dangerous BANG when the second top not comes off!)
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v169/photos/7/7305/2455263/DSC03881-vi.jpg">

3) Jack the car up and let the strut drop out of the tower:
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v189/photos/7/7305/2455263/DSC03882-vi.jpg">

4) Remove old bushing and bearing and replace with new:
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v189/photos/7/7305/2455263/DSC03884-vi.jpg">

5) Compress the suspension again so the bushing goes into the tower (lower the car). Torque down the inner nut to 60NM or 45 lbs:
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v189/photos/7/7305/2455263/DSC03886-vi.jpg">

6) Torque down the upper retainer plate and bolt:
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v189/photos/7/7305/2455263/DSC03887-vi.jpg">

7) Both sides Done in a bit under an hour! (lack of air tools and multiple jacks will cause this to take a bit longer). When complete you'll have about 1/4 inch of space between the retainer and the top of the strut tower when the wheels are on the ground. As the bushings wear (Or you take a hard hit and bust the bearing/bush) this space increases.

All in all a relatively easy Sat. Morning job. Parts cost about $35 from places like thepartsbin.com or Pure Motorsports. Had em in 2 days! Ride is cushy and not as precise, as you would guess considering the old set-up was essentially all metal, but no more rattle.....Woo hoo!

Thepartsbin PN: 1JO 498 331C Sachs: 802 270 (kit with bearing)
<img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v171/photos/7/7305/2455263/DSC03890-vi.jpg">

I have to do a little alignment tweek (Toe) as my previous settings were for a particular camber and ride height...

the Quiet sTTorm...

I need to replace mine Steve. Great write up. You removed the ground control?

TTschwing

I sent a heads up to Gil in case he misses this post....

the Quiet sTTorm...

Any reason for removing the GC?

MikekiM@PureMS

I've seen numerous cases where the impact gun doesn't tighten the nuts enough, and instead simply spins the shaft.

I'd consider using regular hand tools and a torque wrench. This way you'll be 100% certain the nuts are completely tight.

I've got a whole set of sockets ground down like this for exactly this purpose. 17mm to 22mm

<img src="http://www.purems.com/images/my_storage/strut_nut_tool3.jpg">
<img src="http://www.purems.com/images/my_storage/strut_nut_tool.jpg">

DuTTCH

This works great, you can use the torque wrench and any local automotive place has those sockets for $10.

The one I use is from Autozone: OEM 25001 (Oxygen Sensor Socket).

If you have bilsteins you'll need OEM top nuts.

ArTT Vandelay

before the GC were released. I had the rattle immediately. I don't think it's a bad spherical bearing, just a factor of metal instead of rubber. It is annoying though. Mine only rattles at certain frequencies. Smooth pavement and most rpm's are is fine, so i live with it.

DerTT

Did this last year ... there was a 1/2" height diff between the old and the new.

TTschwing

Nice on the road but rattled on sharp suff and stutter type bumps. There is definite up and down play in the bearings though. The fact that it got progressively worse led me to that diagnosis...I'll live with the sloppy front end for awhile til I decide what to do...:-). The immediacy and precision with the GC's was amazing..

coasTTal

Also, what torque values did you use.

I was also told to get the proper size socket and grind two flats on it and hold with wrench and then insert allen wrench through top of socket to remove top strut nut.

Still don't know how you would torque this setup though if you need to hold allen wrench.

I've also got the strut cups and bearings, just got to find the time to do, along with my replacement bilsteins.