Is there such thing as a super small subwoofer that wont take up a large part of my trunk?
#4
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and their 10.5LF 10" woofer Pro Series sub only requires .5 cu. ft. for the enclosure. Both of these would need a box built(in the right size) and an external amp.
Also check out the JL Audio Microsub. An 8" sub in a prefabricated, speically tuned, ported enclosure. With the right amp it can REALLY turn out some bass for it's size. I've heard one driven by a Mcintosh Car amp in my friends Oddessy and you wouldn't believe it is only an 8" sub. This setup would only require mounting the microsub box(half circle shape) and again an amp.
With both those solutions you will need an amplifier. If you don't want that I think your best bet would be to check out the Infinity Basslink.
HTH
Also check out the JL Audio Microsub. An 8" sub in a prefabricated, speically tuned, ported enclosure. With the right amp it can REALLY turn out some bass for it's size. I've heard one driven by a Mcintosh Car amp in my friends Oddessy and you wouldn't believe it is only an 8" sub. This setup would only require mounting the microsub box(half circle shape) and again an amp.
With both those solutions you will need an amplifier. If you don't want that I think your best bet would be to check out the Infinity Basslink.
HTH
#5
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Whether someone chooses a sub enclosure and an amplifier, or a Basslink or Bazooka, they will need to feed it signal, power, and remote turn-on. The "all-in-one" approach of the Basslink and amplified Bazooka resonates with people because they think it's an easier solution.
When you consider that it requires the same wires to be run, the choice (for me) is a no-brainer--the sub enclosure and amplifier will usually be more flexible and can sound much better.
Jenner and I agree on this (I think!), hence both of us are using the amp and enclosure approach in our TTs.
If space is an issue, and you don't want to re-do your whole system, I suggest you get one 8" or 10" sub (BA Pros are great) in a small, sealed enclosure, powered by a class D amplifier. Class D amps usually have very modest footprints--you could even mount it to the enclosure if you wished (I wouldn't, but that's just me).
Good luck,
John
When you consider that it requires the same wires to be run, the choice (for me) is a no-brainer--the sub enclosure and amplifier will usually be more flexible and can sound much better.
Jenner and I agree on this (I think!), hence both of us are using the amp and enclosure approach in our TTs.
If space is an issue, and you don't want to re-do your whole system, I suggest you get one 8" or 10" sub (BA Pros are great) in a small, sealed enclosure, powered by a class D amplifier. Class D amps usually have very modest footprints--you could even mount it to the enclosure if you wished (I wouldn't, but that's just me).
Good luck,
John
#6
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I put 2 kicker 6.5 free air subs in the rear panels and it sounds great! no loss of space at all and clean as stock look.
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