MosTT

Thanks to TTSchwing and DumpTTruck. Here is some help for finding the transmission hole or plug for locating the TDC for the flywheel. You have to put your chin on the body on the right front side of the car at the sticker that warns that the radiator fan might come on, then look in the space between the hose to the intake manifold and the water hose and the tranny hole or plug will be seen down the side of the engine. It also helps to mark the cam pointer on the underside of the cam so you can see when it is comming around from the inside view. I was not sure of the Transmission mark because the cap had been left off and there was some rust in some areas of the flywheel. The pictures posted by OldShoolAudiGuy were good but had two holes and seemed to be a different view or with the engine/tranny out.I could not see a clear pointer on my transmision. Many of the pictures from 2004 postings do not display, I dont know if it is my browser or if they are not there. I checked the cam mark and it was one tooth off from the marks on transmision TDC in the tranny flywheel view site. The tranny TDC painted marks still did not match up with the screwdriver in cylinder #1 to define TDC. It seemed that the painted on flywheel TDC mark came up a few teeth before the screwdriver TDC point. I started the car and it runs with a tapping that I guess is a valve noise. My question now is can this be solved with some electronic setting or will the belt have to be removed and every thing reset to TDC using the Flywheel mark. Someone please reference a photo or description of what the flywheel mark should look like in a 2001 TT Quattro 225.

TTschwing

Apparently you missed them. HIT THE LINK BELOW.

If the belt is off even one tooth, you'll eventually get a camshaft position sensor error and CEL and performance will suffer..

You'll have to take pressure of the tensioner for the re-do...How to do that is in step 10 in this write-up
http://www.amp82.co.uk/tt/timingbelt/<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1780905.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1780905.phtml</a</li></ul>

MosTT

This is great! I guess I did miss the pictures before. I hope I can find that pointer on my rusted flywheel. I did count 68 teeth also. I believe the camshaft was moved by my volunteer helper while the belt was off, so I will need to rotate it with the belt off to reset TDC for it when I also align the flywheel. I found a trick to release the tensioner by placing the pointed end of a old style lug wrench into the brass split end of the tension pully and applying constant pressure downward. I had much trouble trying to turn the head of a (substituted) M5 50 bolt due to the tight space. I found this bolt at my small town old style hardware store.

MosTT

Thanks a lot for the link to BlueTTop's photos. they zre great. I missed this post earlier. I was like a little boy with a New Dump Truck and and lot of dirt to play in.

MosTT

Thanks to BlueTTop's photos of the flywheel mark and Other links and How toos including DumpTTruck's pointers I was able to reset my cam to TDC while matching TDC on the lower pulley. TTSchwing gave some great pointers too. It is extremely easy to move the lower pulley. Even the weight of a wrench can move it especially when near TDC. I developed a new trick to retract/compress the tensioner and remove belt from cam, water pump tensioner and lower pulley and then reposition the timing belt without removing the motor mount. Attempting to use the screw down method with the M5 50 bolt or M5 55 stud was too hard to turn in a corner almost against the firewall and under the cam wheel. I used an old style tire iron to push down constantly and slowly on the brass split tip of the tension roller and then fashioned a thick clothes hanger bent at 90 degrees on one end and long enough on the long end to maneuver through the hole to act as a new pin for the tensioner, a mechanics mirror was helpful in finding the hole up top but it can be seen straight vision from below too. Two working together can do this maneuver the second person can be anyone strong enough to just hold some presssure on the tire iron after the tensioner is depressed.I had already re assembled everything but when I started the engine it did not sound right. I found the TDCs did not match upwith the flywheel TDC. I removed the multiple ribbed belt and its tensioner and the three cam belt covers. I only had to remove the plastic covers on the coolant bottle and the plastic on the left hood area and of course the wheel and wheelliner. I can upload photos of my methods if someone will instruct me how. I used the hose method of BlueTTop to hold the timing belt on the lower sprockets at TDC matching the flywheel mark then slight stretched the belt up partially on the water pump and the lower teeth an onto the cam with overhang clamped lightly with a vice grip. It was possible to strech the belt over the remainder of the cam with the slack portion over the tensioning pulley. It went on little by litle. I did not want to risk a belt slip and did not try the turn on method. The clotheshanger pin was pulled releasing the tensioner. And no the markings on the belt did not match up with the TDC points when the belt was rotated two to four turns. I just ignored it per TTSchwing's suggestion as I saw that the cam, lower pulley and flywheel marks all matched at TDC. I fired her up and she runs smooth with the usual acceleration and no unusual sounds and no CELS.